Live From... Milan Fashion Week, Day 1

Jil Sander

             

Raf Simons looked to youth tribes to inspire his spring/summer collection, playing with boyish silhouettes and reworked proportions in a fusion of retro and futurism that didn't always hit the mark.

The look: Retro-futurism

Silhouette: Boyish mismatched proportions

Key items: Tailored shorts – with flared legs from a narrow high waist -- are the mainstay of this collection, worked as a component to SB suitings in 2 and 3SB combinations. They are also teamed with chunky pebbled or crocheted sweaters with a handcrafted feel, layered under the futuristic contrast of clear plastic tops or jackets. Elsewhere the silhouette is cut lean and mean, with second-skin fit suede and leather coats and jackets worked with the contrast of full-legged pants

Colour: Muted and low-key greys, black and indigo with saxe blue, moss, amber and violet

Fabric & knit: Silk blend suitings, silk/wool mohair, pinstripes, leeather, suede, eelskin, clear plastic, melanged pebble knits, crochet, jersey

Print & pattern: Exaggerated snakeskin print

Footwear: 80s-style heavy round-toed rubber sole oxfords and Dr Marten boots

Accessories: Snakeskin shoppers, flat document pouches worn as body bags

Posted in: Jil Sander,menswear,Milan Fashion Week,SS/ 12