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Gucci
"The year 2011 marks our 90th anniversary and I have explored Gucci’s codes from many perspectives, reintroducing elements from the DNA with the 70s and the spirit of dressing iconic men as a reference." Frida Giannini
The look: New dandy
Silhouette: Unadulterated 70s with razor-sharp tailoring and cocooning luxe outerwear
Key items: The sharp-shouldered exaggerated-lapel suit was at the heart of the collection, with slim waisted jackets teamed with flared pants and layered over neat-fit knits and toning shirts and ties. Outerwear was stamped with all the luxurious appeal of an ostrich trench, Mongolian lamb, rabbit and beaver fur coats or ¾ jackets, while fit-and-flare reefer coats and a crocodile DB kept the mood a little more grounded. And for evening, the all-out-glamour of the velvet tux worn with an insouciant youthful elegance
Colours: A muted palette of soft cappuccino and griege-tinted neutrals teamed with soft shell or blush pink morphing into rich burgundy, espresso, tan, camel and black, with accents of cornflower, sapphire blue and violet
Fabric & knit: The ultimate luxe touch of velvet and flannel, cashmere, mohair and angora offset with ostrich, crocodile, beaver and rabbit, astrakhan, ponyskin and shearling
Details & trims: Sharp peaked lapels, fur collars
Footwear: Ankle boots in shaded leather, tasselled moccasins
Accessories: Long knitted scarves, canvas belts, leather belts, foulard breast-pocket handkerchiefs, the bamboo bag worked with blackened handles in washed leather, pigskin or buffalo
Alexander McQueen
A slick and confident collection from Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, who drew on historical military references mixed with modern sportswear pieces for a look that had a sharp but eclectic appeal.
The look: Menswear on parade
Silhouette: Sharp tailoring worked with relaxed outerwear silhouettes and casual sportswear bottomweightsKey items: The military-inspired coat in several guises, from fur-trimmed to tailored regimental style and cocooning poncho, layered over sharply tailored SB and DB suits or sporty cuffed jog pants and slim-legged leather jeans. Polo-neck knits and boxy gilets added a layered feel and there were further military influences in the trompe l’oeil military regalia printed jacket or in the Prussian-style forging trims on a casual blousonColours: Military red, black and grey, navy and airforce blue with accents of bone, cerulean, chrome yellow and ochre
Fabric & knit: Luxe flannels and boiled or felted wools teamed with classic checked suitings, pinstripes and velvet. A more rugged look featured coated plaids, Donegal tweeds, ponyskin, canvas, leather and shearling Print & pattern: Military regalia motifs worked in trompe l’oeil effects. A splashy black and white graffiti print
Details & trims: Contrast trims and edging, frogging, leather trims, suede knee pads on leather jeans, contrast piping on bottomweights
Footwear: Zip-front military boots, patent slip-ons, tan and navy patent oxfords, patent sneakers with matt rubber toecaps
Accessories: Military caps, ombréd gloves
Iceberg
The mood was one of relaxed fit and easy layering for Iceberg’s autumn/winter showing as outerwear and tailoring got a subtle deconstructed look.
The look: Weathered and worn classics
Silhouette: Layered deconstructed and unstructured tailoring and outerwear
Key items: SB and DB tailoring came with an aged appeal, with unstructured shapes and raw edges worked on classic fabrications. Pant shapes were cropped and unpressed, teamed with unstructured throw-on coats, poncho wraps and mismatched waistcoats (US: vests), casual suede or felted wool blouson jackets and reefer coats or shrug-on shearlings. Knits were elongated and layered with simple V-necks, fine-gauge cardigans, heavy-gauge striped cables or chunky knitted cardigan jackets
Colours: A muted palette of greys and griege-toned neutrals accented with sharp highlights of tan, cerulean and burgundy, camel and pale saxe blue
Fabric & knit: Classic herringbones, Prince of Wales plaids and dogstooth checks, cashmere, boiled or felted wools, rough suede, shearling, leather, fine-gauge and mohair
knitsPrint & pattern: No pattern apart from woven stripes worked as a border on wool coats and jacketsDetails & trims: Raw edging, blanket-stitch edging
Footwear: Tan or grey antiqued oxfords
Accessories: Long knitted scarves
John Richmond
With his signature rock ‘n’ roll vibe rooted in the 80s this season, John Richmond sent out a collection of tough-luxe looks with plenty of fur and leather and edgy attitude.
The look: Luxe rocker
Silhouette: Narrow under cocooning outerwear shapes
Key items: Slick reefer coats and jackets, layered with high-button 1SB and DB tailoring. Leather biker jackets and shearling aviators, puffas, fur-trimmed hooded parkas, Barbour-style jackets, fur gilets and a quilted duffel coat ensured a broad outerwear offer, teamed with distressed jeans, cropped pants and hooded knits. Signature printed shirts and signature beadedknits added to the rock vibe
Colours: A medley of rich browns, camel and grey offset with black
Fabric & knit: Waxed cottons, leather, shearling, fur, flannel, pinstripe suiting, sheened tonic or mohair suiting, denim, cashmere, astrakhan as a trim
Print & pattern: Collaged-effect prints featuring skulls, gothic-inspired typography and scrolling foliage, skin prints and jacquards
Details & trims: Fur collars, beading, quilting
Footwear: Tan and grey oxfords
Accessories: Structured totes, checked ties
Etro
The humble cow gave rise to a wealth of inspiration for Kean Etro this season, the animal itself providing him with colours and fabrics, while its natural habitat - namely mountains and wild pastures - brought forth the embellishments and decorative motifs that are so instrinsic to an Etro collection.
“The cow is central to this collection. I was thinking about all the places a cow lives, from outside my window at college in Cambridge to places like Tyrol, between Italy and Austria.” Kean Etro
The look: Tyrolean mountain men come to Milan
Silhouette: Tailored with a gently sloping shoulder and straight leg
Key items: Tailored straight-leg pants ran throughout the collection while top halves were layered with embroidered T-shirts, mid-gauge polo-neck sweaters, a plethora of cardigan styles and short-length jackets including boxy bikers and a felted wool baseball jacket; outerwear highlights included a wide-cut DB trench in long-haired cowhide, a fluffy ladder-stitch SB coat and a lightweight parka with fur hood; tailored suits were also important, with slightly slimmer trouser legs and neat jackets with a gently sloping shoulderline; jersey knit waistcoats and patterened shirtings completed the look while for evening the velvet tux jacket and dress coat dominated
Colour: A range of earthy browns form the core palette: sandy tan, rich cigarillo, dark espresso, chestnut and chocolate, complemented by olive moss greens and warm milky white; royal blue, burgundy and shots of copper and old gold act as highlights
Fabric & knit: Hairy cowhide, lustrous silk wool suiting, paisley jacquards, micro check wools, teased wools, curly lamb’s fur, jumbo corduroy, velvet, double-stripe cotton shirting, crackle glazed blue leather, ladder-stitch knits, jersey
knitsPrint & pattern: Contrast checks spliced on single items such as coat bodies/sleeves, central-placement paisley T-shirt graphics, pastoral florals, stylised paisleys
Details & trims: Tyrolean and Himalayan embroideries, patches and overstitching resembling timeworn mends, embroidered and beaded motifs depicting a dinosaur eating paisley leaves, leather-trimmed jeans, peaked lapels, coin-button cufflinks, curly lamb’s fur collars, diamond quilting
Footwear: Cowhide shoes – lace-ups, tasselled loafers, slippers
Accessories: Rough-hewn amber pendants on leather thongs, horn/tooth pendants, tall curly lamb’s fur hats with cap peaks, blunt-ended ties, silk pocket squares, patterned socks, knitted scarves coiled around the neck, fingerless gloves, holdalls in spliced exotic leathers
Versace
A fiercely tailored collection and muted palette of industrial black and grey allowed Versace menswear designer Martyn Bal to focus attention on texture this season. Knitwear played a central role and the monochromatic optical patterns that were touched upon last season manifested themselves in technical and engineered knits in blistered and three-dimensional effects.
"This season's Versace collection for men presents an optical game of shapes, proportions and graphics, conducted with a knowing and contemporary nod." Donatella Versace
The look: Germanic austerity coupled with New Wave Berlin optics
Silhouette: Strictly tailored
Key items: Double-breasted overcoats, formal shirts and ties, long-line quilted leather biker jackets, tailored gilets worn over coats and suit jackets, turtle-neck sweaters layered beneath patterned crew-neck jumpers, an asymmetrically zipped blouson with notched collar, knitted jumpers in three-dimensional textured knits, skinny leather pantsColour: Tough black, steely industrial greys and camel punctuated with electric blue, brick red and a flash of hot pink
Fabric & knit: Optical jacquards, lustrous wool mohair suitings, waffle-embossed and quilted leathers, windowpane-pressed suede, smooth wool blends, cashmere, engineered textured knits, three-dimensional blistered knits
Print & pattern: Pixellated knit intarsias, black-and-white optical patterns, Mondrian-style geometric square panelled knits
Moschino
It was sporting geeks on the touchline at Moschino, with a preppy-meets-sports-coach collection of vividly coloured basics, Collegiate stripes and a smattering of tailoring.
The look: Collegiate sports heroes
Silhouette: Big cocooning outerwear layered over sportswear basics and neat tailoring
Key items: The down-filled puffa coat and boldly striped puffa jacket were key pieces along with a Collegiate striped blazer and geeky DB tailoring, sports pants and soft knee-length shorts teamed with striped rugbys; for a smarter option there were crombie-style coats and a velvet tuxedo, albeit it in brilliant cobalt blue. Sportswear details trimmed classic tailoring – think ribbed welt trims and go-faster stripes
Colour: Sportswear brights – vermillion and cobalt blue – with navy, grey, black, ivory and pine greenFabric & knit: Traditional suitings like pinstripes, velvet, leather, nylon and satin, collegiate stripes
Print & pattern: A newsprint all-over, sporty graphic slogans and numerals
Details & trims: Ribbed welt top collars on tailoring, go-faster stripes on suit sleevesFootwear: Brightly laced sneakers, hi-tops and oxfords
Accessories: Knitted scarves, bow ties, collegiate striped ties, bright runkled socks, flat caps
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