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Lanvin
Several of the week’s emerging trends were confirmed at Lucas Ossendrijver’s showing for Lanvin, where the designer played with dressed-up looks and mismatched proportional layering.
The look: Retro glamour
Silhouette: Narrow, layered and reed thin contrasted with volume through the torso
Key items: Fluid wide-cut flat-front pants helped determine the new silhouette, teamed with narrow close-cut coats and jackets - best as a retro-styled DB or 1SB in soft washed brights or velvet. Elsewhere it was all about leggings or skinny pants and minimal knee-length tunics, styled with flat fronts (this is the season of hidden fastenings) or simple shell tops, both often layered under rounded puffa jackets for a mismatched silhouette and a play on proportion. There was a sense of asymmetry too in the narrow DB coats, which came with hidden magnet closures or biker-style zips - another emerging trend this season.
Colour: All shades of grey, black and inky navy, alabaster, camel, soft khaki or olive, washed brick and mallard green, taupe and aurbergine
Fabric & knit: Like many designers this season, Ossendrijver opted for bonded fabrics to create a sculpted silhouette. He offset that with luxurious flannels and cashmeres, tweed, leather, velvet and satin
Print & pattern: A grey and camel fragmented geometric pattern, teamed with a coordinating print that was overprinted in darker grey
Details & trims: Flat-fly fronts, hidden magnet closures, epaulettes, contrast facings
Footwear: Loafers in grey or tan leather or suede; pale leather hiking boots
Accessories: Striped club ties, narrow bow ties, document cases, toning gloves (newest in pale colours), felt fedoras
Yves Saint Laurent
A more youthful look underpinned the Yves Saint Laurent autumn/winter collection, as Stefano Pilati opted for a reed-thin silhouette with subtle Edwardiana teddy-boy influences, contrasted with overscaled outerwear.
The look: Young blade
Silhouette: Reed thin and elongated contrasted with big, overscaled, boxy outerwear
Key items: Tailoring formed the core of the collection, reworked as high-buttoned 2SBs, creating the illusion of a longer jacket length. Contrast trims and high-set narrow shawl collars lent the look an Edwardiana-inspired teddy-boy feel. A contrasting silhouette came in the form of lean DBs with narrow six-button placements. Pant shapes were cropped and narrow, contrasting with boxy square-cut outerwear shapes featuring Pilati’s new sloping shoulderline - a look that also transcended to his tailoring. Coloured plain-dye shirts - with micro collars - and fine-gauge knits completed the look
Colour: A palette of shaded greys, black, pine green, aubergine and tonal navy blues, from ink through to softer French navy, highlighted with accents of absinthe, old gold and pumpkin used for shirtings and fine-gauge knits
Fabric & knit: Felted wools, shadow checks, cashmere and flannels
Details & trims: Contrast velvet collars and pocket details, narrow revers and shaved shawl collars
Footwear: High-shine shoes on a heavy patterned unit
Acne
A surprisingly low-key look from Acne, with underplayed tailoring and an emphasis on the long-line coat , which when teamed with simple knits created a youthful sartorial appeal.
The look: The Acne boy grows up
Silhouette: Long-line and classic
Key items: The long overcoat was a key feature, worked as classic DBs or even as a reproportioned duffle, layered over narrow cropped and cuffed tailored pants. Tailoring was another key option, coming as low-break SBs or with a narrow shawl collar, teamed with fine-gauge knits in winter brights. Contrasting shirt tails peeped from under sweaters or sweatshirts, baring travel-destination logos such as Rio de Janeiro, Paris and New York. Fine-gauge twinsets were another key look, with asymmetric detailing
Colour: A classic palette of charcoal, black, alabaster and camel, with accents of raspberry, bright turquoise, pumpkin and cobalt
Fabric & knit: Bonded wools, herringbone tweed, cotton shirtings, wool twill, marled sweatshirting. Fine-gauge and lofty heavy-gauge knits
Print & pattern: Travel-destination logos on sweats
Details & trims: Shawl collars, low-break points
Footwear: Chelsea boots in leather, or patent classic oxfords
Accessories: Soft shoppers, document cases
Bill Tornade
Bill Tornade was marching to a military beat this season - one with a Scottish tune, as traditional tartans clashed with army greatcoats and battle jackets.
The look: The tartan army
Silhouette: Neat but relaxedKey items: The DB greatcoat, ¾ trench and DB military battle jacket or reefer - some with luxe fur collars and a horizontal zip at the hem band. Kilts offered an alternative to the narrow cropped cuffed pants that ran through the collection teamed with novelty knits, knitted shirts, casual jackets or neat SB tailoring.
Colour: Black and grey, khaki and camel, scarletFabric & knit: Traditional tartans, flannel, waxed cottons, leather
Print & pattern: Woven plaids, a trompe l’oeil intarsia featuring braces
Details & trims: Military badges, safety pins, zips on shirts and running horizontally round the hip of a greatcoat or the waistband of jackets
Footwear: Chelsea boots, laced military boots
Accessories: Satin scarves adorned with safety pins
Paul Smith
There was an easy casualness to Paul Smith’s latest menswear offering, his signature tailoring offset with baggy cardigans and untucked, raw-edged shirts.
The look: Thrown-together nonchalance
Silhouette: Slim-legged and casually layered
Key items: Long quilted parkas with shearling hoods; duffel coats with off-centre toggled closures; tailored crombies with zipped feature collars; baseball jackets and sloppy oversized cardigans layered atop patchworked print or collarless chambray shirts. Tailored trousers are lean and cropped or long-rise and generously cut, while casual options include motocross-style zipped pants and tapered chinos. Long, thick knit cardigan coats featuring dressy peaked lapels
Colour: Camel, sky blue, silver and a range of mid-level greys, with pops of titanium blue, sunshine yellow and vermillion
Fabric & knit: Flannel, micro-check wools, chalk-stripe suiting, chambray shirting, cashmere blends, mohair, marled yarn knits, tufted teddy furs, waffle-like textured knits, leather, suede and shearling
Print & pattern: Grayscale animal print, faded marbling, spliced and patchworked prints, polka dots
Details & trims: Shearling hoods, raw-edge shirts, spliced leather jacket sleeves, oversized popper fastenings, knee patches, triple zipped knee details, toggles, zip-trimmed shawl collars
Footwear: Lace-up boots with double-buckled contrast leather ankle strap, derby ankle boots, plain pull-on boots
Accessories: Squashy unstructured totes and holdalls, knitted fishermen’s beanies, retro goggle-like sunglasses, wishbone pendant
Thom Browne
The 18th century is rich pickings for a designer partial to a cropped trouser or two, and as such Thom Browne revelled in breeches and knickerbockers for winter. Couple that with layered coats, long capes and pouffy leg-of-mutton shirts, and it’s a recipe for fashion-themed high jinks.
The look: 18th century eccentricity
Silhouette: Voluminous puffs and cuffs
Key items: Historically inspired breeches and knickerbockers, floor-sweeping coats, edged frock coats and puff-sleeved shirts. High-breaking 4SB crombies were slim and neatly tailored, while blazers and jackets were short and shrunken. Sleeveless jackets and blazers with spliced or contrast-knitted sleeves were on trend; tailored trousers were cropped and cuffed
Colour: Signature red, white and blue; mid-level greys, white and black; grass green and burgundy
Fabric & knit: Mix-and-match checks including plaids, Argyle diamonds, windowpane and gingham; astrakhan, ermine and curly lamb fur; mohair, velvet
Print & pattern: Signature woven checks, double stripe
Details & trims: Speckled feather trouser cuffs, red/white/blue striped ribbon trims, contrast sleeves sometimes knitted
Footwear: Plain zip-up ankle boots, lace-up army boots, monk-strap shoes
Accessories: Buckled gauntlet gloves, cable-knitted snoods, shrunken pork-pie hats, top hats and canes, chunky knitted scarves and headbands, collegiate striped ties, wire-framed round sunglasses in two sizes
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