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Junya Watanabe
Never brash or showy, JunyaWatanabe’s quiet sensibility led to a strong and focused collection of reworkedmenswear staples, such as short duffels in slicked leather, Fair Isle-patternedblazers and cropped trousers that had the all the comfort and casualness of ajogging pant.
The look: A mix of collegiatetailoring and rustic outerwear
Silhouette: Ankle-swingingtrouser lengths, neatly fitted torsos
Key items: Croppedtrousers, either tailored or jogging-pant casual, worn with separate 2 or 3SBblazers in tweed, wool, Fair Isle or even cable knits; collegiate double-striperaglan sleeve cardigans both buttoned and zip-through; white collar shirts withclipped and rounded collars; classic outerwear items such as pea coats,duffels, wind cheaters and quilted puffa jacket
Colour: Black and inky navy blue,warm red, cream and flinty greys; a muted secondary palette of khaki and muddybrowns with plum
Fabric & knit: Double-facewool, slubby wools, Donegal tweed, flannel, slicked finish leathers, darkdenim, cotton shirting, waterproofed cottons, buffalo check linings, heritagefabrics including herringbone with over woven windowpane check, houndstooth,plaid
Print & pattern: Wovenpatterns including banded Fair Isle, Argyle diamonds, plaids and tartans
Details & trims: Splicedribbed knit shawl collars, contrast patch pockets; shoulder and elbow patches
Footwear: Tasselled loafers, lace-upderbys, deep-tread deck shoes and desert boots
Accessories: Bakerboy caps in buffalo check, cord or tweed; trilbys
Kris Van Assche
Taking the idea of thetraditional suit and trying to turn it into something younger and more urban is the aim of Kris Van Assche’s latest collection.
The look: Urban minimalism
Silhouette:Elongated lengths or oversized proportions juxtaposed with blocky, square-cuttailoring
Key items: Signaturelong-rise pants with a soft and generously cut leg alternating with a slimmerstraight-cut pant for more tailored looks; oversized sweaters and elongatedcardigan coats; cocoon-shaped zip-through coats with dropped sleeveheads andexaggerated fold-over polo neck; tailoring is squared but slim, with minimaljackets featuring collars that morph into scarves, part zipped-part buttonedclosures or completely concealed flay-fronts; square-cut ribbed knit gilets arelayered over tailored jackets
Colour: Strictly black, charcoal,slate and camel with crisp white shirts
Fabric & knit: Denseflat surface wools, fine wool suiting, cotton shirting, subtle plaids and thickribbed knits
Print & pattern: Dark,tone-on-tone plaid checks
Details & trims: Droppedsleeveheads, spliced sleeves, horizontal banded and spliced knit, concealedclosures, silver zips, exaggerated protective polo necks
Footwear: Round-toed boots with sidelace details
Accessories: Oversizedbags worn across the body on elongated straps
Comme des Garçons
A darkened room only serves to heighten the mashed-upeccentricity of Rei Kawakubo’s dandy guys, dressed in layers of patternedjacquard, silky robe coats, Chaplin-esque shrunken jackets and wide swingingpants all finished with a mop of curly hair.
The look: Eccentric decadence
Silhouette: Longlayers, loose fits
Key items: Widepants shapes are de rigueur – from palazzo and pyjama styles to super-widedenim jeans and buttoned-cuff harem derivatives; shawl-collared blazers arepinched across the chest, flaring downward with cutaway closures; gaudy silkshirts, foppish ruffle-front shirts and long-length patterned shirts leftuntucked are layered beneath, as are graphic-logo band tees; cotton outerwearis unstructured and crumpled; elongated DB overcoats reaches the shin whilesilky robe coats are offered for evening
Colour: Jet black, washed black,smoky greys, yellow-toned khaki, dark denim blue and pops of red
Fabric & knit: Aplethora of patterned jacquards – floral, paisley, coin spotted; silk, lurex-shotpinstripe, crumpled and washed cottons, dark-dye Japanese denim, washed T-shirtjersey, soft felted wool
Print & pattern: Bandtee graphics, spliced scarf prints, signature polka dots
Details & trims:On-trend spliced sleeves, frilled shirt sleeve cuffs and collars
Footwear: Smooth plain boots withdeep tread, two-tone formal spectator lace-ups with broguing
Givenchy
Riccardo Tisci has been playingwith streetwear silhouettes for several seasons now, but for next winter thosesame wide-cut shorts and baseball jackets take a darker turn, emblazoned withvicious rottweilers and trompe l’oeil chains. This is perhaps his way ofcommenting on the violent gang culture penetrating the youth scene at themoment, the blood red roses framing the runway a further reminder that deathlies at the end of this tragic pathway.
The look: Fierce streetwear
Silhouette: Widecut and boxy
Key items: Streetwearstaples including baseball blousons, puffa jackets and fur-hooded bodywarmers,sweatshirt tops, oversized tees, wide-fit shirts and the signature wide shortsTisci has favoured recently; tailoring arrived as 2SB suits with flat-front pantswith turn-ups and spliced sleeve 3SB Crombie coats
Colour: Black, bitter chocolatebrown, inky midnight blue and cosmetique nude
Fabric & knit: Densewool, crisp cotton, sweatshirting, jersey, smooth waxy leathers, even plaids,beaver fur
Print & pattern: Rottweilergraphics as single placement motifs, composition border prints or worked intobandana-style scarf prints with stars; trompe l’oeil knit stitch and chainborders
Details & trims: Splicedsleeves, zipped shoulders on sweatshirts, popper fastenings
Footwear: Thick white-soled hi-topstrainers and knee-high lace-up boots
Accessories: Hosiery,felted caps, rucksacks, punk-goth belts with spike and ring hardware, bandanascarves with dog fang placement graphics, black thick-rimmed opticals
John Galliano
Rudolf Nureyev is John Galliano’s romanticised poster boy thisseason, as he tracks him from Russia to Europe, from ballet studio to stage.
The look: Russian ballet dancer
Silhouette: Chaoticallylayered
Key items: as if telling the story,the opening passage is the escape from Russia wrapped up in bulky great coats,thick ribbed-knit leggings or long-rise pants cropped on the knee and shrunkenpoor boy jackets; then Nureyev arrives in the West in slim-legged tailoredpants worn with neat DB Crombies and duffel coats before hitting the studio insecondskin ribbed knits and semi-sheer fine-gauge cardigans and vests, paddedpaper-bag-waist shorts and tapered pants; the final passage has a costumic feelwith fluid printed-silk pants, tie-waist shirts, decorative gilets andembellished sleeveless jackets, as well as a quilted satin and velvet smokingjacket
Colour: Dense greys, sooty blacks,pine green, rich plum and white
Fabric & knit: Leather,shearling, beaver, ponyskin, brushed yarn looped wool, heavy duty wools andfelts, checked wool suiting, classic pinstripe, velvet, watery silks,fine-gauge ribbed knits, a Russian-style floral intarsia
Print & pattern: Floraland fruit prints
Details & trims: Russian-inspiredgold thread embroideries and trims, fringed beading, lace appliqué, quilting,pieced leathers, paper-bag waists
Footwear: Tall pull-on boots insmooth plain leathers, scruffy red-laced work boots
Accessories: Chunkywool-fringed socks and gloves, legwarmers, thick knitted hats, printed silkscarves, turbans, a fox fur fat with tails, black aviator glasses with built-upbridges, military brooches
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