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Corrie Nielsen
Corrie Nielsen showed she was the worthy winner of the 2010 Fashion Fringe award with her debut stand-alone collection on the LFW runway, where she applied dramatic silhouettes with a sense of romance.
The look: Historical romance
Silhouette: Elizabethan-inspired and sculpted
Key items: Mannish pleat pants and crisp ruffed shirts came swathed with dramatic sashes, their masculine appeal tempering the more dramatic silhouettes of Nielsen’s Infanta-style dresses with the farthingale skirts and strict bodices. Tailoring too had that same rigorous silhouette, with high leg-of-mutton sleeves dominating strictly waisted jacket shapes. There was a subtle sense of modernity in her short ruffled bustier dresses, contrasted with the historical feel of crisp peg-top pants topped with a billowing taffeta cape
Colour: A rich palette of intense jewel tones with sapphire and garnet red shimmering against lamp black and smoke grey
Fabric & knit: Crisp metallic-shot taffetas, delicate chiffon, gazar, wet-look cloqué
Details & trims: Ruffled collars, draped sashes
Footwear: High close-fitting minimalist boots, high strappy platforms
Sass & Bide
It is forever summer in Sass & Bide land, and on a grey London winter’s day their dazzling mix of sun-baked colour and primitive patterns brought a brief ray of sunshine into the first day of London Fashion Week.
The look: Modern-day fashion tribes
Silhouette: Wrapped and draped
Key items: There was less emphasis on the design duo’s signature body-con looks this season, as they topped slim pencil skirts and simple sheath dresses or long split-side maxis with overscaled wraps, tethered at the waist with neon-bright belts. Everything had an asymmetric dynamic, from the dipping jacket hems of a simple patterned pant suit to the handkerchief hem of a sinuous belted suede coat. Cardigan jackets came faced with glittering sequins, a fabric trend taken through to wet-look skinny jeans and colour-blocked blazers. Suede fringing, a plethora of mismatched prints and lightweight layers added to the tribal feel
Colour: A sun-baked palette of pinks and terracottas, earthy browns, almost neon-shaded melon and fuchsia, with splashes of sunny marigold and saffron
Fabric & knit: The lightest, most sinuous suede layered with crepe de chines, silk taffetas, wet-look sequins and fine cottons
Print & pattern: This was a mélange of collaged pattern, from the tribal geometrics and blanket checks to silk ikat weaves, plissé and hand-painted effects
Details & trims: Rouleau cords used as looped trims, scalloped layers, suede fringing, deep V-backs, corded macramé cuffs and edging, beaded edges
Footwear: High vampy suede ankle boots in eye-searing brights
Accessories: Vivid suede high-crowned sculpted hats, soft pouchy clutch bags, neon belts, tribal razor-teeth necklaces, tribal beaded collars
Bora Aksu
Inspired by Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde, Bora Aksu’s autumn/winter collection Angel & Fiend played against opposites: heavy and light, masculine and feminine, modern and traditional. “Dark motives against an air of respectability were interesting me, and how to incorporate both those characteristics into one look,” said Bora Aksu.
The look: Modern update on Victoriana tailoring
Silhouette: Slim uppers falling into tulip- and bell-shaped sculptural skirts
Key Items: This season’s emphasis was more on tailored separates and clever pieces, like an adaptable three-quarter-length coat that unfastens into a cropped jacket. A pleated grey wool cape with contrast-print inner was another strong outerwear look, teamed with faux laddered leggings, and hitched and pleated tweed skirts. For evening, there were subtly sexy cable-knit maxidresses with mesh sleeves and bead detailing
Colour: Smoky greys, black, white and accents of silver, all contrasted with a bold emerald green
Fabric & knit: Traditional suit materials of wool and tweed, contrasted with mesh, plasticised cotton and leather
Print & pattern: Black and white tweed
Details & trims: Leather piping, lace collars on cotton shirts, tube beads on knitted maxidresses and cord-bound panelled bodices
Footwear: Block-heeled toeless laced ankle boots in black and beige
Accessories: Small bows: worn as traditional bow ties, attached to thin leather belts and worn on skirts at the tailbone
Felder Felder
After an uncharacteristically bright spring/summer season, German twins Daniela and Annette went back to their traditional dark palette, though this was lifted and enhanced with strong Yves Klein blue, petrol and emerald green. “This collection was inspired by strong elements in nature - thunderstorms, owls and ice flowers,” said Annette Felder.
The look: Futurism via the natural elements
Silhouette: Body-con slim with flirty skater skirts and exaggerated shoulders
Key Items: There was a 1990s flavour to some of the pieces, including cross-back-strap bra tops with gold studding, and half and half trousers in silver leather and white denim. Simple shapes, such as cropped leather jackets and a sleeveless shift, were updated with goat’s hair trim. Strapless bodysuits with mesh trains and sheepskin puffball skirts in black and white stood out
Colour: ice white, black, Yves Klein blue, emerald green, petrol
Fabric & knit: Sheepskin, leather, satin, chiffon, denim
Print & pattern: Marbled satins and kaleidoscopic prints on chiffon in muted shades
Details & trims: The mechanics of the clothing were highly visible: oversized buckles and toggles on cropped jackets teamed with large unhidden zips. Starburst-shaped gem and sequined embellishment, circular cutouts on leather skirts and jersey tops, and goat’s hair edging on accessories and shoulders - all tying in with the sisters’ natural elements theme
Footwear: Chunky-heeled ankle boots in black, grey and nude, with buckles, sheepskin or small tassels
Accessories: Long goat-hair-trimmed wrist cuffs with gold round studs and matching chokers
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