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Calvin Klein Collection menswear
Experimenting with shape and construction, Calvin Klein’s menswear collection had a youthful appeal. “I always liked the juxtaposition of luxury and the industrial,” Italo Zucchelli, menswear creative director, told WGSN. “Precious materials and techno elements put together - two different worlds combined.”
The look: Modern masculinity
Silhouette: Elaborate hybrid of line and form
Key items: American bomber jackets, pullover jackets, classic DB blazers and two-piece suits, crewneck shirts, cropped jackets and single-pleated trousers, voluminous on top and tapered at the bottom, or slim-fitting bottoms
Colour: Textural onyx, charcoal shades, Klein blue, pine green, black and white, and pops of red
Fabric & knit: Tweeded melton wool, alpaca, cashmere and jacquard were among the main fabrics in the collection, in addition to mohair, fleece and glazed nylons
Print & pattern: Rubber-print wool, subtle polka-dot overall print, tweed and lots of surface textures
Details & trims: Hidden buttons, leather and high-gloss taping on outerwear
Footwear: Calf lace-ups and oxford boots
Accessories: Slim ties, leather gloves and simple, oversized frames
Y- 3
Yohji Yamamoto’s autumn/winter collection had both heritage and a futuristic vibe, with a mix of fabrics such as performance nylon and luxurious shearling.
The look: Contemporary take on heritage sports
Silhouette: Sportswear-inspired and tailored
Key items:
For women: Deconstructed, tailored skirts and dresses with accompanying tops, voluminous multi-pleated ankle-length skirts, sporty overalls, dropped-crotch relaxed pants, equestrian-inspired cropped track pants, light knits and cropped leather bomber jackets
For men: Heavy leather outerwear, a utility-inspired take on the tracksuit, leather bomber, modern cargo trousers, cropped track pants
Colour: Black and navy, off-white and beige, olive green, shades of grey, and pops of bright red and blueFabric & knit: Nylons, wool, cotton, leather, flannel and shearling
Print & pattern: Polka dots, reworked checks, multiple plaid offerings and an overall mix of patterns, in addition to realistic equine placements on the back of garments
Details & trims: Prominent fastening closures, oversized logo use, glossy taping and lots of utilitarian pockets
Footwear: Sporty platforms, futuristic running trainers and hi-tops
Accessories: Elongated leg and arm warmers, backpacks, knit caps and hood shoulder bags
DKNY
Entitled “Something New York”, DKNY’s autumn/winter 2011/12 collection was inspired by the “modernists in New York City”, and was all about graphic lines, daring colours and mixing textures.
The look: Fresh ingénue
Silhouette: Linear and sleek
Key items: Layering is key to this collection, which showed blazer-like capes over leather moto jackets, crisp white blouses and skinny wool pants. Sweet minidresses with Peter Pan collars and colour-blocked angora sweater dresses had a mod feel, while the cheetah-print shearling coat was urban and glam. Outerwear was the standout, and included a black wool gabardine double-breasted blazer, a houndstooth plaid pieced blazer and mohair-knit puffa coat
Colour: Black, cream, navy and shades of gray, with shots of lipstick red, caramel, cherry, henna orange, foundation, blush and raspberry
Fabric & knit: Wool, leather, crepe de chine, melton wool, angora, silk charmeuse, wool twill and silk georgette
Print & pattern: Though there was some plaid, the collection included mostly colour-blocking and panellingDetails & trims: Metallic threading on plaid pieces, Peter Pan collars, exposed zippers, black piping on white blouses, and multi-fabric lapels and pockets
Footwear: Stacked-heeled Mary Janes, two-tone oxfords and cap-toed booties
Accessories: Tasselled cross-body bags, structured satchels, ankle socks and leather pork-pie hat
Max Azria
With strong menswear inspiration, Max Azria showed tailored sophistication blended with urban ease.
The look: Practical sophistication
Silhouette: Tailored yet feminine
Key items: Dual-layer coats and blazers worn with slim dobby pants, along with matching tweed separates, are smart and serious. Shiny metallic embossed-leather pants and pencil skirts paired with satin tunics offer a fresh mix of masculine and feminine. Coat dresses in wool crepe and waxed fur are regal and elegant
Colour: A mostly neutral palette of black, dark olive, ash brown, charcoal and sage, with refreshing pops of apricot, teal and rust
Fabric & knit: Silk seersucker, tweed, satin georgette, waxed fur, cashmere, embossed leather, nylon and silk chiffon
Print & pattern: Digital linear prints and embossed snakeskin prints on leather
Details & trims: Leather lapels and pocket flaps
Footwear: High-shine patent pumps
Accessories: Black leather chokers, dual-pocket shoulder bags and skinny wrap belts
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Inspired by Diana Vreeland, Preen’s collection was an eclectic yet refined mix of prints, textures and proportions.
The look: Perfectly edited hotchpotch of looks
Silhouette: Multiple pieces that create one streamlined look
Key items: Preen’s collection is truly the sum of its parts. Structured wrap skirts and simple knee-length skirts are topped with pleated wool peplum minis and worn with kaleidoscope-print blouses and knit turtlenecks. Grey and navy wool pantsuits take on a tongue-in-cheek look, with multicoloured chiffon layering pieces and satin mid-calf-length skirts. Playing with proportion, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi create long and lean shapes by layering tunic blouses and sweaters over wool pants and satin skirts. Embellished maze-print chiffon blouses are worn with pops of royal blue and cantaloupe for an unexpected day-to-night look
Colour: Grey, lavender, cantaloupe, orange, ultraviolet, navy and black
Fabric & knit: Embroidered silk chiffon, wool, burn-out velvet, nubby knits and embellished chiffon
Print & pattern: Kaleidoscope prints that resembled quilts and stained-glass windows, and a more subdued digital Tetris print
Details & trims: Multicoloured embroidery and sparkly metallic glass beads
Footwear: Suede booties in blue, tangerine and navy
Accessories: Simple skinny belts in embossed navy and black leather
Diane von Furstenberg
Diane von Furstenberg’s autumn/winter collection played to the designer’s signature strengths, with lots of mixed prints, luxe textures and that uptown sense of glamour that is the hallmark of New York runways.
The look: 70s glamour
Silhouette: Below-knee A-line lengths balanced by easy-layered shapes
Key items: The emphasis was on layering and separates this season, with thigh-high split pencil skirts and below-knee gauchos teamed with cropped bikers - the best in tumbling block patchwork - ruffled blouses, fur gilets and fringed suede jackets. Easy tunic shapes came in solid colours or mixed prints, or were worked as jersey layering pieces with relaxed pant shapes. For evening there were full-on Studio 54 evening gowns in sparkling sequins and disco diva brights
Colour: Black and white tempered the palette of rich cognac browns, raspberry reds and damson berry tones, offset with soft Wedgewood blues, vivid cobalt, spearmint, kelly green and malachite
Fabric & knit: Suede, leather, crepe de chine, lamé, Mongolian lamb, jersey, sequins, sheers, brushed woolsPrint & pattern: A mélange of Aztec-inspired geometrics, a monochromatic heart motif, simple spots, Matisse-style stencil patterns, a jewel print, a mini clover leaf pattern
Details & trims: Circular mesh inserts on a slinky jersey dress, cutouts, contrast colour-blocks and fabric mixes
Footwear: Knee-high leather or suede boots added to the 70s vibe; high vampy ankle-strap sandalsAccessories: Wide sash-tie belts, rouleau tie belts with tassel trims, gaucho hats, bangles, tassel or fringe details on bags
Tommy Hilfiger womenswear
The Hilfiger girl has come of age, and these days looks more at home in the boardroom than on the collegiate touchline, and for autumn/winter 2011/12 she is suited and booted to within an inch of her glossy sophisticated life.
The look: Masculine/feminine
Silhouette: Strictly tailored
Key items: An immaculate charcoal flannel tailored pantsuit set the stage for a collection that worked around all elements of a man’s wardrobe - the classic DB tailored coat, a button-down shirt, slim tailored pants - albeit here in leather - a practical poacher-pocket parka and a duffel hybrid. Aran knits came teamed with shearling gilets or a cosy flying jacket, and there was a slickly cut PVC trench for those rainy days on Wall Street. Colourful foulard prints straight out of the tie drawer were crafted into easy pyjamas or a soft shirtdress - a look repeated in a soft smoky-grey stipple print on a sheer ground
Colour: Classic flannel grey, inky blues, espresso brown, camel and cognac, with accents of malachite green and flashes of ochre and cobalt in prints
Fabric & knit: Luxe flannel suiting, classic check suiting, with a coordinated sheer striped jersey, matt jersey, a metallic checked wool, shearling, leather, suede, rubber-backed canvas, silk twill
Print & pattern: A small-scale foulard repeat; a soft stipple print on a sheer ground
Details & trims: Poacher pockets, duffel closures
Footwear: High-heeled loafers, back-zipped knee-high boots
Accessories: Striped hosiery, sheened hosiery, printed breast-pocket handkerchiefs, soft felt fedoras, suede and leather holdalls, attaché cases, knitted capelets cropped at the front, long in the back
Derek Lam
Derek Lam presented a low-key collection for winter, built around layered separates with a sturdy, sensible appeal.
The look: No-fuss workwear
Silhouette: Choppy square-cut layers, knee-lengths
Key items: There was a sophisticated workwear influence to the looks, built up of wearable separates - mannish wide-leg pants with narrow-collared shirts or minimal shifts worn with long-line tailored jackets, sometimes topped with sensible wool coats. Other outerwear options included a cropped flight jacket with shearling collar, a high-low edge-to-edge jacket, and colour-blocked leather moto-biker jackets. A-line dresses featured tall mandarin collars and off-centre toggle fastenings, while high-low-hem sweaters and tunics were layered over skinny leather pants. Loose-fitting jumpsuits were also of note, and for evening, halterneck poplin gowns were billowing and lightweight, sometimes topped with a leather bodice
Colour: Workwear staples of red, black and grey, with sky blue, winter white and sombre khaki. Occasional pops of old gold, electric blue and a dark bordeaux red
Fabric & knit: Heavy wools, tri-colour tweed, leather, large-scale buffalo-check wool, silk, poplin, lamé. A range of winter furs including fox, lamb, shearling and a glossy black pelt
Print & pattern: Placement stripes
Details & trims: Horn duffel toggles, off-centre coat closures, leather edging, high-low hems, funnel necks, mandarin collars, contrast shirt collars and plackets, elongating colour-blocked panels on tailored trousersFootwear: Lace-up booties, peep-toe ankle boots, simple two-strap heeled sandals, court shoes
Accessories: A Gladstone handbag with patterned centre panel
VPL by Victoria Bartlett
Victoria Bartlett drives sportswear into the fashion arena by turning comfortable leisurewear - think draped jersey tees, pieced leggings and cropped knits - into well styled ensembles.
The look: Twisted and draped sportswear
Silhouette: Draped layers and loose volume over skinny legs
Key items: Pieced joggers and semi-sheer leggings formed the base from which looks were built, layered with signature draped jersey tops and cropped knitwear. Tulip skirts featured wrapped or folded details and were worn with zip-through jackets. Grecian-draped minidresses and a delicate blouson jumpsuit featured a single swagged shoulder. Outerwear highlights included an oversized raglan-sleeved zip-through coat and an ultra-lightweight ciré parka with drawstring hem and cuffs. The final section involved a parade of latex, and semi-sheer lingerie and swimwear
Colour: The palette was clearly divided into two parts - the first, a host of cigarillo browns with flashes of bright orange and bronze metallics, cool camel and old gold. The second, a range of smoky greys, with pewter and slate tones
Fabric & knit: Stretch lamé, slinky Lycra, several jersey weights, stiff nylon, ultra-lightweight ciré in a wet-look finish, heathered wools, waffle piqué, boiled wool, smooth satin, glossy leather, a metallic short curly fur, latex
Details & trims: Sporty drawstrings, spliced fabrics, engineered seams, bandage wrapping, draped shoulders, blouson volume, industrial zippers
Footwear: Ankle boots with wide wells and fin details, ankle boots with over-wrapped details
Accessories: Oversized resin bangles, twisted tube bracelets and necklaces, chain belts with tubular sections, waist-cinching elastic belts, coiled knit scarves
Cushnie et Ochs
Body-con tailoring, vampy dresses and gothic goat-hair trims were the hallmarks of Cushnie et Ochs’ autumn/winter showing, which was often more styling than serious fashion substance.
The look: An unlikely mix of vampy gothic with a Native American twist
Silhouette: Strictly tailored
Key items: Strict tailored skirt suits and masculine tailored shirts were offset with skinny flared pant shapes; leather fitted shell tops were trimmed with goat hair; and strict body-con dresses featured caged rouleau strap details, sometimes with silk fringing and goat trims. That same rigorous silhouette applied to thigh-high split pencil skirts, slick sheath dresses and sharp-shouldered cropped jackets with a shaped rever
Colour: Black, white, winter white, ultraviolet, deadly nightshade, khaki, espresso, silver
Fabric & knit: Satin, suede and leather, goat hair, plush fur, crepe de chine, silk fringing, liquid metallic jersey, python, moiré taffeta, gazar, sheers
Details & trims: Caged rouleau straps, goat-hair trims peeping from under hemlines, exposed zips with high-shine trims; ammunition-belt-inspired leather trims
Footwear: Vampy high-angled platform courts and scooped-front shoe-boots
Accessories: Feathers in the hair
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