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Missoni
In a season in which the emerging trends have focused on vintage references and an intense palette of autumnal brights, Missoni’s autumn/winter showing blew like a breath of fresh air - or should that be fairy dust? - with its enchanting fairytale palette and lighter-than-air knits and weaves. By adding in slouchy menswear pieces and reworking proportions, the look brought a new sense of youthfulness to the house, which has been a mainstay of Italian fashion since 1953. “First of all I graded all the colour and then applied the same idea to the knits, dissolving from thicker stitches to thinner,” said Angela Missoni. “I tried to create three-dimensional shapes through braiding, but keeping it as light as a feather. I wanted to show how winter can be both light and warm.”
The look: An enchanted winter fairytale
Silhouette: Long and languid grounded with oversized deconstructed menswear
Key items: Floor-sweeping maxi coats brought a new meaning to the word luxury, worked in degradé snakeskin with floral chiffon linings, layered over slouchy watercolour raschel-knit pants and tunics, whisper-light ombré knits, and flower-appliquéd conversational-print sheer dresses. Languid bias-cut knit dresses swooped to ankle, spliced with diagonal panels of silk velvet, while raw-edged slouchy masculine tweed jackets, soft shorts and blanket plaid cashmere skirts added that all-important grounding touch. Woodland creatures such as fox and rabbit were worked as feather-light furs, dyed in candy cotton colours and delicate knitted lace jackets morphed into clouds of wafting marabou feathers at their hemlines
Colour: A flower-fairy palette of palest pistachio, faded hydrangea blues and lilac, aquamarine, jonquil, cotton-candy pinks and apricot. Ivory and vapour grey
Fabric & knit: Degradé snakeskin, georgette, suede, silk crepon, brushed cashmere, knitted fox, rabbit, mink, raschel knits, silk velvet, knitted lace, fine Lurex knits with intarsia flower patterns
Print & pattern: Delicate floral motifs and a hand-drawn conversational print
Details & trims: Appliquéd florals, raw edges, scrolling floral embroideries
Footwear: Snakeskin patchworked biker boots
Accessories: Angora beanies, skinny snakeskin belts, caps, angora socks, fur collars, fox jewellery
Aquilano & Rimondi
Autumn/winter 2011 was a glittering affair from Aquilano & Rimondi, with a collection of sumptuous colour, luxe-touch fabrics an artisanal approach to print and decorative trims.
The look: Handcrafted and 20s
Silhouette: Shorts and flapper-inspired
Key items: The knee-length shift was a recurring theme, dissected into panels with linear appliquéd ribbons or fused fabric mixes. Likewise, simple coat shapes had the same artisanal appeal. Devorated shell tops or laminated knits topped straight-legged cigarette pants, and there were neat boxy suits as part of the lookColour: A luxurious palette of sophisticated neutrals based around camel tones, with warm caramel, cognac, old gold and grenadine, accented with chartreuse, pewter greys, marigold yellow, pale rose and forget-me-not blue
Fabric & knit: Cashmere, satin, hammered satin, metallic leather, velvet, sequins, lamés and Lurex, iridescent silks, marabou
Print & pattern: A random distressed houndstooth pattern, creating an almost scribbled effect
Details & trims: Jewelled studs, crystal trims, distressed antiqued ribbon trims, beading, hand-stitched linear ribbons
Footwear: Studded strappy metallic courts
Accessories: Strings of crystal with gold leather buckle trims
Salvatore Ferragamo
Sleek, sophisticated and seductive are the words that sum up Massimiliano Giornetti’s vision for Salvatore Ferragamo next winter, where the designer opted for a masculine/feminine play on silhouette, with subtle 80s references and a chiaroscuro palette of black, white and shades of grey.
The look: Boardroom vixens
Silhouette: Sharp, tailored, masculine-feminine mixes
Key items: Masculine tailored blazers and coats teamed with sleek jumpsuits for a new take on boardroom dressing, while the coin was reversed with the side-split pencil skirts and plunging wrap dresses or seductive blouses. The new pantsuit came as a lean wrap-belted jacket worn with tapered cropped pants. Sheer blouses added to the sexy mix, along with wrap skirts, a strictly tailored wrap leather coat with a flared skirt and contrast facing, and for evening, beaded sheer LBDs and glittering lamé columnar gowns
Colour: A chiaroscuro palette of black, white and all shades of grey
Fabric & knit: Pinstriped suiting, houndstooth checks, Prince of Wales checks, leather, satin, jersey, Donegal, lamé, sheers, lace, velvet. Add in fox and lynx for the plush-touch luxe factor
Print & pattern: Houndstooth and dogstooth, simple black and white spots
Details & trims: Beaded tassel trims, fabric- and pattern-blocking
Footwear: Courts with snakeskin or croc trims
Accessories: Calfskin and crocodile bags, Swarovski-jewelled panther bracelets and chokers
Marni
The show notes touted “rigorous shapes and a restrained sense of embellishment” for Marni this season, and there were certainly fewer crusty paillettes than ever before. Instead, Constructivist geometric prints were the key vehicle for decoration here, wildly played out across simple shapes that acted as blank canvases. Less decorative and less sporty than usual, winter at Marni came over all grown up.
The look: Elegant coordinated dressing with Marni-esque twists via pattern and colour
Silhouette: Elongated columnar layers with rounded shoulders and a fluted swing at the back
Key items: Coordinated separates were the key device here, such as a DB cocoon coat with matching wide-leg pants or long tunic tops layered over pencil skirts. Short-sleeved sheath dresses were columnar in cut, ending just below the knee, while fur jackets and coats added a plush volume to the simple linear shapes. Bonded leather pieces - a funnelneck cap-sleeved jacket and a couple of oversized coats with rounded shoulders - had a stiff, structured quality, while softer pieces arrived as printed silk blouses with a high neck and vertical slash at the chest, or silk skirts or dresses with pointed or dipped hems
Colour: Signature off-beat colour mixes such as pine green with blancmange pink, or royal blue with dirty mustard, against solid anchors of navy, grey, cream and dense black
Fabric & knit: Lurex glitter knits, metallic jacquards, dense double-faced wool crepe, printed silks, wool fil bouclé, knitted wool felt, bonded leather; mink, fox, beaver and racoon furs
Print & pattern: Constructivist-inspired geometrics, a strictly linear octagonal pattern, blotchy windowpane checks, freehand linear grids
Details & trims: Exaggerated shirt tails on tunic tops and coats, black cluster paillette sleeves, diamond fur appliqués, rounded balloon sleeves
Footwear: Constructivist-inspired shoes with platform and block heel cut from one piece of wood, chunky multilayered platform wedges, stack-heeled Mary Janes, and lattice-strapped platform slingback sandals with jewelled detail at the front
Accessories: Long slouchy leather gloves with a fabric trim; fur-cuffed gloves and thick-cuffed gauntlet gloves with a metal clasp. Deco bijoux jewellery including necklaces comprising horn, wood and resin elements interspersed with quartz or pyrite flakes; oversized pendant earrings made up of multifaceted boules and modular geometric shapes. Bug-eye sunglasses, perforated bonded leather clutch bags and printed purses with metal lever clasps
Dolce & Gabbana
High energy and with a hefty dose of kitsch and costume, Dolce & Gabbana riffed on the recurring theme of masculine/feminine dressing, which has been explored elsewhere in Milan this week. But this wasn’t simply a case of adding a boyfriend blazer to an otherwise feminine collection, at Dolce & Gabbana next season, you can be either Teddy boy or Glitzy girl.
The look: Boys and girls out on the town
Silhouette: Elongated and oversized masculine tailoring vs shapely body-con
Key items: Central to the masculine looks were crisp white shirts and longline wide-cut DB coats - both offered with or without sleeves, and exaggerated collars or revers. Pants were carrot-shaped with a long dropped crotch and cropped tapered leg, often worn as part of a suit, with a short one-button jacket with wide peaked lapels. For the feminine side of the collection, signature second-skin sheaths and corseted dresses were important, as were familiar billowing maxidresses and pussy-bow chiffon blouses with cuffed balloon sleeves worn with high-waisted pencil skirts
Colour: Plenty of monochrome, with highlights of pale pink, canary yellow and turquoise. Metallics also played an important part - principally gold but also molten turquoise, magenta and copper
Fabric & knit: Masculine suitings including pinstripes, herringbone, Prince of Wales check and pied de poule (houndstooth), with double-faced gabardine, cashmere, floral jacquards and white poplin shirting. For the feminine pieces, there was stretch charmeuse, tulle, lace and chiffon, while high-shine sequins and plush furs ran throughout both themes
Print & pattern: Kitsch prints with great commercial value - stars in various scales, musical notes and scores, tiger stripes
Details & trims: Ornate jewelled embroideries, star appliqués, shimmering paillettes, lace panels, embroidered lapels
Footwear: Masculine lace-up flats in sequins, animal print or yellow leather, with black polka-dot appliqués and candy-coloured monk-strapped styles or brogues; pointed courts (US: pumps), slingbacks and lace-up shooties decorated with leather appliqué stars, musical notes or piano keys
Accessories: Trilbies and pork-pie hats, miniature Miss Sicily bags attached to belts, soft clutches matching the appliquéd footwear, purse-shaped snap-clasp bags on decorative chain handles, large star-shaped earrings, resin cuffs
Versus
It seems Christopher Kane is obsessed with the LBD. First came his own in London, decorated with colourful gel-filled squiggles, and then yesterday they popped up in Milan for Versus, here with exposed corsets and glittery geometric prints. While that made for a succinct vision and one that is ultimately commercial - after all, you can never sell too many little black dresses - it perhaps lacked the colour and excitement that Kane and Versace usually do so well.
The look: Minimal graphic
Silhouette: Sharply tailored
Key items: The LBD arrived in no fewer than 15 incarnations, with even the fitted crombie coats working a dress-like aesthetic with corseted waists. The dresses were all cut at the knee but featured various peekaboo panels revealing sheer boned corsetry beneath. This same device appeared at the waists of tailored jackets or between a leather crop top and long A-line skirt. Interspersed with the dresses were thick-strapped vest tops, strict straight-cut pants, and ribbed charcoal-grey sweaters striped with a zigzag intarsia
Colour: Black and dark charcoal grey with prints in purple, magenta, midnight blue, emerald green and pewterFabric & knit: Double-faced crepe, wool flannel, polished leather
Print & pattern: Stencilled geometric glitter prints
Details & trims: Ridged external corset on the waist of a coat, bra cups, thick dress straps
Footwear: Black ankle boots and chunky-strapped sandals with block heels covered in pink or purple crystals
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