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Christopher Shannon
Christopher Shannon didn’t forget his sportswear back catalogue; instead he quietly subverted it with influences from all over the globe this season. Travelling and David Attenborough’s Human Planet gave him a jumping off point to create wearable, yet eclectic pieces.Shannon said he was inspired by Pieter Hugo books. He also spent time looking back through his own work archive, honing in on pieces he wanted to do more with so the collection wasn’t “just a dry commercial show”.
The look: Tailored and globally inspired embellished sportswear
Silhouette: Layered tops against slim bottoms
Key items: Anoraks and trousers came adorned in many variations including, frilled, with layered trims and with fleece geometric inserts. Quilted ciré jumpers and quilted slim trousers (courtesy of Lavenham) were paired with fleece and knit geometric patchwork bombers and jumpers. Skirted slim trousers under ruffled anoraks gave a sporty layered look. Short-sleeve smart shirts were layered over fine-gauge jersey tops
Colour: A spectrum of greys and petrol blues were highlighted with bright multicolours to give an ethnic touch
Fabric & knit: Fine-gauge marls, fleece, clean nylons, cottons, embellished blanket weaves, technical sports fabrics. Coated technical textiles on bags
Print & pattern: A paisley-leaf motif and abstract stars dominated as all-over print and detail
Details & trims: Overuse of fringing, trims and tassels showed the global influences
Footwear: His collaboration with Pointer saw modern workings of the brand’s classic styles. Brightly colour-blocked suede inserts and heightened soles added a fresh take on moccasin ankle boots. Basketball hi-tops were covered in the paisley-leaf motif in black and white leather
Accessories: Moving his collaboration with EastPak forward, familiar rucksacks and small man-bags were embellished with ethnic tassels and trims. Flat caps with geometric appliqué and chequerboard intarsia scarves finished the look
Cassette Playa
A madcap medley of colour and offbeat key items had the club-kid audience whooping with delight at Cassette Playa’s autumn/winter showing, inspired by marauding seaside gangs.
The look: Urban tribes
Silhouette: Updated classic outerwear with track pants
Key items: Starting with napa-leather shorts and biker jackets covered in signature airbrushed prints, the collection moved swiftly on to a more classic selection of Barbour-style quilted jackets (by Lavenham) with vibrant graphic airbrush prints, as well as reworked wool pea coats with patterned inserts, sleeveless wool biker jackets and an oversized bright-red wool duffel with gold piping and orange Perspex toggles. A gold textured leather biker jacket gave an explosion of bling, while oversized cricket jumpers and track pants were worked in black cable knit. Oversized hand-knitted hoodies and sweat pants with large graphic intarsia were created in collaboration with Sibling knitwear, and in a collaboration with Mattel, Playa showed Barbie’s friend Ken will be wearing black silk pyjama pants with a kimono-style cropped dressing-gown cover in hot pink roses on hot dates next winter
Colour: Blacks and greys vs ultra-bright red, pink, yellow and blues, inspired by the reflection of neon lights in the night
Fabric & knit: Silks, denim, chiffon, Lycra and jersey; napa leather and Merino hand knits
Print & pattern: Signature CGI digital prints and urban symbols
Footwear: Dr Martens boots and shoes with vibrant contrast-colour soles, and Nike running shoes in bright synthetics
Man - New Power Studio
New Power Studio referenced stark contrasts, from phallic hen-night props to religious rituals for autumn/winter 2011/12. Contemporary sportswear shapes are given a voodoo feel when presented alongside ambiguous photoreal prints.
The look: Utility gets subversive
Silhouette: Sportswear-inspired with oversized slouchy sweats or graphic straight lines
Key items: Asymmetrically quilted puffa coat, printed cuffed trousers, raglan sweatshirt with black arm panelColours: Brown, black and grey are used for colour-blocking; moss green, metallic gold and flesh-pink features
Fabric & knit: Velvet, nylon crepe, brushed cotton, sweatshirting
Print & pattern: Hand-dying techniques create a geological-like motif; bold tiger printed jackets; a simple dot-and-number print, almost like pattern-cutting paper
Details & trims: Tonal panelling and graphic multi-texture colour-blocking
Footwear: Understated black leather Nike trainers with chunky white soles
Accessories: Risqué moulded sculpture adornment by Rein Vollenga. Religious and masonry imagery reinterpreted by Scott Wilson
Man - Felipe Rojas Llanos
Ballet and opera inspire Felipe Rojas Llanos’ autumn/winter 2011/12 collection of sparse and sculptural formalwear, with a nod towards 50s suiting, with shrunken proportions and snug fits.
The look: Sleek and sophisticated with strong lines and voluminous form
Silhouette: A-line silhouettes and snug ¾-length suiting; trapeze coating
Key items: Collarless jackets, diaphanous deep scoop-neck tops, opera cloak as outerwear option, shirt jackets, slim pant shapes
Colours: Black, petrol blue, teal, turquoise, claret, cherry red
Fabric & knit: Silk organza, high-sheen silk on ankle-skimming trousers, silk chiffon, fine-gauge nylon filament-yarn knits
Details & trims: Exaggerated box pleats, rolled hems, hat-pin gathering provides a horizontal break, concealed fastenings, diagonal folds, inverted gathers, dolman shoulders
Footwear: Subtle leather lace-ups
Accessories: Hat pins provide the sole adornment
Man - Martine Rose
The extreme contrasting temperatures endured by desert tribes, and the “armour” needed to survive these climates, were the focus of Martine Rose’s autumn/winter 2011/12 collection.
The look: Functional
Silhouette: Proportion layering and panelling defined the silhouette
Key items: T-shirts made from hypothermia-style foil, teamed with waisted, slim-legged jeans with contrast patch details or exposed zip trims. Classic shirtings featured contrast pocket placements, often traced with a contrast piping. Outerwear came as cropped blousons or asymmetric-hem cocooning blanket coats, with utility detailing or big compressed-felt coats
Colours: Brown, black, grey, sky blue, cobalt, metallic gold
Fabric & knit: Materials focus on texture and temperature - fleece, wax, faux fur, compressed felt, hypothermia blanket foil all featured, along with classic striped shirting and waxed denim. Honeycomb-stitch cropped knitwear
Print & pattern: Tonal wave pattern, almost like land gradations
Details & trims: Zip pockets, colour-blocking
Footwear: Lumberjack boots by CAT are updated with strapping and red panelling
Accessories: Spiky laurel-wreath headdresses
JW Anderson
JW Anderson’s menswear collection - entitled The Fear of Naturalism - worked on the theory that “the chaos that underlies our experience means that we are free to explore endless possibilities and pluralities of the self”. Focusing on reconsiderations of English tailoring and boundaries of gender, Anderson admits that it is a naïve idea, but concludes that it is ultimately “better than being boring.”
The look: Softly flamboyant androgyny
Silhouette: Predominantly long and lean, with high waists and trousers cropped just above the ankle
Key items: Black pleat maxiskirts teamed with slim-fit blazers or fluffy angora jumpers; front cutout jumpers tied around the waist; rubber waistcoats in pale pink and bright yellow; and an eclectic coat combining tweed, paisley, sheepskin and wool
Colour: Navy, black, white, aqua, pale pink, dusty red and khaki, with flashes of bright orange and yellowFabric & knit: An interesting and unexpected mixture of fabrics, often combined in one piece: angora, chiffon, wool, sheepskin and rubber
Print & pattern: Paisleys in traditional browns, beiges, reds and dark blues
Details & trims: Long sheepskin trims on hoods, and a jumper with black and white rows of sequinsFootwear: Distressed-look thick-soled lace-ups and ankle boots with bold shoelaces
Accessories: Belts came in skinny black leather or in bold, thicker orange and yellow rubber. Hair ornaments and decorations
Topman Design
The man Topman Design had in mind this season was one who, they said, would not look out of place leaving a smoky Parisian jazz club during the early hours in the early 1950s. Beginning with that inspiration and adding tinges of the 1970s and a touch of rockabilly, the team created an edgy modern take on winter elegance.
The look: 1950s styling with hints of 1970s decadence
Silhouette: Slim rather than skinny, cropped trousers and slightly oversized outerwear
Key items: A classic grey wool trench coat with a vintage-look fur scarf; three-piece mismatched suits in layers of white, cream, navy and black; chunky retro knitwear in stripes and patterns; high-waisted trousers cinched at the back and turned up high at the ankle
Colour: A subdued palette of brown, grey, white, navy, oxblood and black, with flashes of colour, such as yellow in a silk scarf, orange in 1970s-print silk shirt, and red in a bold coat
Fabric & knit: Heavy wool knits and Lurex-threaded knitwear, jacquard, tweed, herringbone, fur and silkPrint & pattern: Oversized paisley and a tartan Harrington jacket
Footwear: Shiny patent leather monk-strap shoes in black, white and oxblood
Accessories: Fur tails both as scarves and hanging from belts, small hoop earrings, paisley silk neckerchiefs, smart briefcase satchels in dark hues, metal-plated and heavily buckled vintage belts sourced from Beyond Retro
James Long
Knits and weathered textures stamped James Long’s autumn/winter collection with an individual spirit, as the designer worked his magic through mismatched layering and a dusted palette of heathered tones contrasted with stormy darks.
The look: Eclectic scavenger
Silhouette: Softened volume, easy layers and distressed knitwear styling gave an impression of well-worn armour
Key items: Loosely layered outerwear and elongated cardigans created a soft, worn shell of protection, along with patchwork repaired jumpers. Check mohair coats hinted at a soft traditional feel. Layered fur gilets over jackets and coats offered luxed-up, toughened layered protection. Occasional black wet-look straight-leg trousers created almost lightning-like flashes under the outerwear
Colour: Smudged blues, pinks and purples of winter evening sunsets created a hard romantic edge, with vaporising greys and blotted chestnut browns adding a more earthly grounded feel, all contrasted with flashes of wet-look black like lightning in a storm
Fabric & knit: Leather over ponyskin created a textured contrast on jackets. The blistered leather and clashes of shiny lamé trousers had a stormy appeal, but it was the chunky hand-worked, patched-up knits and softly structured mohair that dominated the collection
Print & pattern: Alongside the check mohair, a smudged, bruised pattern imbedded itself into knitwear. There was a broad gradient across knitwear and jackets, while occasionally black spotted shirts gave a more focused motif
Details & trims: Loose-hanging knit threads and tassels
Footwear: Leather workwear boots
Accessories: Heavy-gauge scarves in gradient block knit
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