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marc by Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs showed a chic and grown-up collection for his autumn/winter 2011 diffusion line, full of 1970s-meets-1940s inspiration and youthful sophisticated glamour.
The look: 1970s urban rustic
Silhouette: Neat tailoring combined with relaxed outerwear
Key items: For women, Jacobs created a confident look by mixing bold colours and textures. A herringbone shorts suit was worn with a merlot satin blouse and an oversized raccoon coat was layered with a tweed A-line skirt and nubby sweater. 70s pant shapes came as tailored tweed trousers or as a velvet pantsuit, worn with satin shell tops or skinny-knit sweaters. Ladylike shirt dresses were right on one of this week’s emerging trends, along with mid-calf gauchos and the collection’s easy dropped-shoulder unstructured coats
For men, metallic multi-stripe V-neck sweaters added contrast to classic tailoring. A fur-trimmed parka was worn over a plaid shirt and tracksuit pant, while a navy sweater coat and tweed pant had a more formal feel and there was the unexpected mix of coloured leopard print and herringbone
Colour: Autumnal hues of cinnamon, chestnut brown, jute, salsa red, coral and navy with cooler shades of plum, Gettysburg blue, navy, frost grey, Kelly green and metallic bronze and gold accents
Fabric & knit: Metallic leather, herringbone tweeds, velvet, corduroy, brushed plaids suede, cashmere, crepe de chine and satin chameuse
Print & pattern: Multicoloured chevrons, recoloured skin prints, a running antelope print, a silhouette panther motif and bold stripes
Details & trims: Plush fur trims on outerwear
Footwear: Shearling-trimmed high-heeled booties, two-toned lace-up Oxfords, snakeskin low-tops, tasselled heeled loafers and laced suede shoe-boots with a contrast metallic leather trim. Antelope appliquésAccessories: Sturdy leather satchels and hobos with gold hardware in navy, russet, brown and chestnut. Some clutches also had a playful panther or python illustration. Skinny belts with gold hardware, soft felt hats, ankle socks and oversized glasses further underscored the 70s references
Diesel Black Gold
A sexy rock vibe with a touch of military romance was embedded in the Diesel Black Gold collection, which was full of luxe fabrications, skinny silhouettes and a sassy sense of almost dishabille dressing.
The look: Historical romance with a touch of rock-chic military
Silhouette: Skinny layers
Key items: Military-inspired silhouettes were cut into skinny proportions and layered in mismatched effects with cropped laced-side jeans in suede, leather or python, the season’s most extreme 70s bellbottoms, lean satin shirts and laced vests or leather tunics with castellated hems. Outerwear was luxe and cocooning with shearling and curly lamb
Colour: Shades of olive green and blue, dusty pink, burgundy, hits of red, black and winter white
Fabric & knit: Luxe-touch suede, leather and python combined with slinky satin and plush shearlings or curly lamb
Print & pattern: A monochrome swirling feathery print
Details & trims: Unfinished edges, gold dome buttons and corset lacing
Footwear: Lace-up ankle boots, fur-covered boots
Accessories: Silk scarves for men, leg-warmers for women, brightly coloured bags and purses
Karen Walker
Karen Walker tapped into the 70s for her autumn/winter collection, drawing on the heady northern England soul scene, where kids danced the night away at the unromantic sounding Wigan Casino and girls took inspiration from the boy’s clean-cut Mod styling.
The look: 70s soul with a touch of Mod
The silhouette: Easy and casual with boy-meets-girl overtones
Key items: Skirts addressed the new below-knee lengths, with full, swirling, half-circle shapes to team with neat boyish polo shirts or easy sweaters. Docker-style donkey jackets, classic Mod-style Crombies and gilets came with leather shoulder panels and the boyish Mod mood was taken one step further with Walker’s ankle-skimming straight-legged pants. She also addressed the emerging trend for shirt dresses, here with soft bow-tied necklines, and mannish full-legged pants worn with athletic dance-all-night racer-back vests contrasted with Sunday-best georgette tea dresses
Colour: All shades of blue from navy to cerulean and cobalt with accents of poppy, sunshine yellow, orange and grey
Fabric & knit: Cashmere coat weights, jersey, flannel leather trims, georgette and silk
Print & pattern: A blowsy, chintzy, floral, all-nighter badge print combined with a simple spot motif
Details & trims: Leather patched shoulderlines and pocket flaps, exposed zippered necklines, sporty ribbed welts on floral dresses and tops
Footwear: Clog-inspired laced ankle boots, mannish lace-ups
Accessories: Knitted beanie hats, weekend hold-all bags, ankle socks
Rodarte
It was Oklahoma all the way at Rodarte where the Mulleavy sisters drew on their American heritage for a collection that combined the wide open plains of the mid-west with traditional handicrafts and silhouettes inspired by the early prairie settlers.
The look: Oklahoma
The silhouette: Historically styled, long and waisted
Key items: The prairie dress with its ankle-skimming proportions, high neckline and flounces was a recurring theme, topped with the Mulleavys’ foray into tailored outerwear with high-waisted, long, lean coats. Masculine tailored pants and vests added a paradoxical contras,t while there was a more feminine look in the full-skirted waisted dresses and patchworked bodice and skirt combos. The red carpet was addressed too in columnar draped gowns with a border of waving wheat-ears
Colour: Wheat-field neutrals and washed sky blues with accents of black and winter white, corn yellow and blood red
Fabric & knit: Silk, leather, pony skin, crochet, lace and embroidered organza, satin charmeuse, sequins, patchwork
Print & pattern: A wheat-field border print, a streaked sky print in shades of yellow, angular geometric patchworks, floral embroidery
Details & trims: Embroidery placements, patchwork
Footwear: Navajo-patterned spike-heeled boots, triple-strap high courts
Narciso Rodriguez
New York’s master of minimal, architectural lines tapped into the season’s emerging trend for a looser silhouette, teaming his signature sparse lines with bold graphic colour-blocking and easy shapes.
The look: Graphic
The silhouette: Longer length and loose
Key items: The longer length loose-fitting dress was the key item in this collection, reworked in a variety of fabrics and colour-blocked mixes. This pattern was repeated in Rodriguez’ simple colour-pieced tops and the boxy lines of his tailoring, sometimes as a collarless jacket or coat. Fluid masculine pant shapes added to the more fluid vibe, puddling the floor over flat, pointed boots
Colour: Black and winter white combined with vivid flashes of tomato red, lilac and purple, hot fuchsia pink and multiple shades of grey
Fabric & knit: Melanged flannels, silky charmeuse, sheers, sequins, plaid wools, leather
Print & pattern: An abstract painterly pattern in a collage of textures
Details & trims: Colour-blocking and spliced fabric mixes
Footwear: Flat, pointed, three-quarter boots
Halston
The bright lights of New York’s night-time cityscape could have inspired Halston’s winter collection, with its luminous dresses that sparkled and glowed as the lights dipped.
The look: Sexy eveningwear with a futuristic vibe
Silhouette: Long and fluid
Key items: Gowns - the mainstay of a Halston collection - flipped between delicate and draped, sequinned and slinky, with exposed flashes of skin at the chest, shoulder or waist. Short options included a single-sleeved sequinned sheath, one-shouldered micro-pleated dresses and a hooded silk jersey mini with draped skirt. Outerwear was cool and minimal, with a hooded wrap coat and a long cashmere cape both offered in clean optic white. Daywear looks included a chocolate leather coat-dress, a polo-necked jersey jumpsuit topped with a curly lamb bolero and a pair of suede peg pants paired with a slicked leather blazer, layered in tonal shades of khaki
Colour: A luminous pale pistachio green, optic white, smoke grey, warm mocha, khaki and black with vivid jolts of teal and ultraviolet
Fabric & knit: Slicked leather, supple suede, Mongolian lamb, shorn fur, micro-pleated crepe, silk jersey, jersey, silk georgette, cashmere. all-over sequins, paillettes and crystals
Details & trims: Daring key-hole cut-outs at chest, shoulder and midriff, cut-away sleeves, eyelet-laced whip-stitching, all-over sequins and iridescent crystals, a bejewelled bra, knots
Footwear: Decorative T-bar strappy sandals in metallic leather, low-cut shooties with ankle strap, multi-strap sandals
Accessories: Multicoloured rhinestone and sequinned belts, skinny leather belts decorated with placement cabochons, chokers
Hervé Léger by Max Azria
The introduction of bonded leathers and fierce metal hardware upped the vampy appeal of the Hervé Léger’s iconic bandage dresses for winter, channelling a sexy warrior vibe.
The look: Futuristic armour
Silhouette: Signature body-con with the addition of a new dropped-waist A-line
Key items: The trademark bandage dress arrived in a multitude of variations - zip-through, pieced and seamed, traced with metal hardware, featuring bondage-style harness straps, long or short sleeves - but all were cut just above the knee. The freshest update was for a dropped-waist A-line flare, which followed through to a swingy miniskirt teamed with a calfskin T-shirt. A few new separates littered the collection, including cropped trousers, an abbreviated biker, a boxy edge-to-edge jacket decorated with leather studs and a lustrous zip-through calfskin coat
Colour: A palette of sandy neutrals ranging from cream through to camel and tan, vampy black and warm white
Fabric & knit: Power mesh and elastic, houndstooth jacquard, wool, leather and glossy calfskin
Print & pattern: Scale-mixed houndstooth
Details & trims: Leather studs, leather harnesses, gold and silver chains, metal buckle rings, bondage-style straps
Footwear: Knee-high boots with cut-out sections at the side and metal toe tip, crisscross-strapped sandalsAccessories: Thin clutches with gold and silver hardware and leather quilting
Vera Wang
Vera Wang cited American society ladies Wallis Simpson and Viscountess Thelma Furness as her muses for winter, with those 1930s references influencing her key motif, the dropped-waist dress. But this was no historical pastiche, with Wang offsetting her delicate dresses with tough urban parkas.
The look: 1930s elegance fused with modern-day utility
Silhouette: Elongated, dropped waists
Key items: Dropped-waist pleated chiffon dresses and gowns were at the heart of the collection and arrived in a plethora of variations: long, short, high-low, with spaghetti straps or fluttering cape sleeves, as scoop-necked tanks or with frilly vintage-inspired high-necklines. Wang topped her delicate dresses with urban parkas that arrived cropped, fur-lined or sleeveless. Daywear looks incorporated panelled flannel trousers decorated with pleated fins hanging from the waistband, sheer pleated blouses and high-necked shirts and heavy-knit sweaters that were cabled or cropped
Colour: Signature black, charcoal grey and winter white for day; khaki, old gold, deep rich red, palest blush, misty grey and cigarillo brown for evening
Fabric & knit: Pleated chiffon, wool flannel, plush black fox fur, long black goat hair for trims
Details & trims: Knife pleats, stitch-down pleats, accordion pleats, pie-crust frills, fluttery cape sleeves, spaghetti straps, high-low maxi hems
Footwear: Heavy platform ankle-boots, some peep-toe
Accessories: Leather gauntlet gloves
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