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Moschino
A slick showing from Moschino, where the sartorial elegance of masculine military uniforms was contrasted with chic, sophisticated, dressed-up glamour with a 50s diva appeal.
The look: Masculine/feminine
Silhouette: Hourglass shaping
Key Items: Strict riding jackets and military-style tuxedo coats set the masculine mood with immaculate tailoring emphasised by piping and braiding details, both silhouettes teamed with cropped jodhpurs and high wing-collared white shirts. Feminine styling offered the contrast of vintage glamour with sharp side-split pencil skirts and waisted sheath dresses etched with sculpted peplums and ruffled necklines, while simple Chanel-esque cardigan suits had ladylike ruched detailing, and a rose-printed floral satin blossomed as a coat lining or for a simple shift. Other masculine elements came into play with the baby cabled cricket sweaters layered over floor-sweeping pleated skirts and the tuxedo bib fronts that trimmed strict LBDs. And for red carpet glamour, satin columnar gowns in palest shell pink, gold and black
Colour: Graphic black and white combinations were offset with ivory, rich cherry red, French navy, gold, shell pink and flashes of fuchsia
Fabric & knit: Strict suitings, crepes, bouclé, satin, liquid gold lamés, coated lurex knits, brocade, jerseyPrint & pattern: A feminine rose floralDetails & trims: Narrow grosgrain ribbon tie sashes, Piping and contrast braid, velvet trims
Footwear: Laced toeless ankle boots, ankle strap sandals, black and gold laced sandals
Accessories: Pearl-trimmed chain necklaces, gold brooches, camellias pinned at the neck of white shirts, long gloves
Antonio Marras
Antonio Marras knows how to create a poignant sense of romance, with his vintage-inspired girls exuding innocent charm as though dressed up in their Sunday best. There were masculine elements in his autumn/winter showing too, with nautical influences and whimsical pieced and patched effects as though our heroines had raided the sewing box.
The look: Nautical romance
Silhouette: Elongated with languid A-lines
Key items: Languid dresses came spliced in a collage of print and matt-shine fabric mixes, while long scale-mixed pleated skirts were teamed with neat-fit sweaters and mannish white starched collars. Hand-knitted looks were worked into chunky two-piece jacket and skirt combos, or came as a nautical striped cardigan, circled with a corsage trimmed ribbon sash. Our romantic heroine borrowed from the boys with her long belted coat or the paper bag tailored full-legged pants and her pieced reefer jacket, and there were easy tweed coats or tuxedos dressed up with shards of lace, patches of astrakhan, jet beads and ostrich feather fringing, like precious heirloom pieces
Colour: Olive, inky navy, black, charcoal, blush and a flash of red
Fabric & knit: Masculine tweeds like dogstooth and herringbone, decorated with lace, marabou and beading, contrasted with the feminine appeal of crepe de chine, georgette, satin and panné velvet
Print & pattern: A finely etched floral on dark grounds; micro abstracted spot motif
Details & trims: Nautical lacing on wide-legged pants, metallic embroidery on tweed, ostrich feather fringing, jet beading
Footwear: High platform courts with ankle straps or X-straps
Accessories: Fabric belts with corsage trims, hand-held Sunday best bags, wrinkled stockings
Blumarine
Anna Molinari took her Blumarine girl on a journey to a whole new country this season, one populated by low-key understated looks with ne’er a print or hint of rock-chick glamour anywhere on the horizon. It was chic and modern with a subtle sense of the 60s influences that are starting to emerge here in Milan this week.
The look: Gamine 60s
Silhouette: Short, A-line and leggy
Key items: The thigh-high A-line skirt anchored the collection, trimmed with leather strap and buckle detailing and teamed with skinny rib sweaters or short-sleeved turtleneck knits. The shift dress was the other key item, completely plain or with a 60s-style hip seam and worked under a classic, neatly tailored Crombie-style coat or a soft belted trench – best in bonded Nubuck. Simple cardigan suits came with leather facings and Molinari was right on the season’s trend button with her lean tunic and pant combos. Little black lace minidresses offered a more vampy look, swept into floor-skimming proportions and a palette of vivid brights for evening
Colour: Black and stone opened the collection, then morphed into classic navy before a passage of intense brights – marigold orange, daffodil, orchid, cornflower and viridian green worn top-to-toe with coordinated matching accessories
Fabric & knit: Cashmere knits and wovens, Nubuck, leather, shearling, double jersey and lace
Details & trims: Leather facings and buckle strap details
Footwear: Over-knee Nubuck boots, flat coloured boots, wide ankle-strap courts
Accessories: Hand-held double-strap bags and totes, lace envelope purses with chain handles, leather cuffs
Aigner
If Etienne Aigner’s autumn/winter collection didn’t have quite the je ne sais quoi that the 70s-fuelled spring/summer showing had, it was a neatly rounded look all the same, with more subtle 70s references via longer lengths and new proportion play.
The look: Urban rustic
Silhouette: Elongated and subtly 70s
Key items: The longer dirndl or soft full A-line skirt, best in soft leather, was a key piece to tie back to the collection’s soft, feminine blouses or waist-grazing cropped jackets – a perfect outerwear item to team with Aigner’s signature 70s-style pants. Elsewhere it was all about the classic DB camel coat layered over mannish trousers, a crisp midi-length military coat in guardsman red, waisted full-skirt dresses tethered with calfskin belts and plush fur gilets, cocooning fur coats and a throw-on plush-touch capelet
Colour: A rich rustic palette of camel, pine, damson, bark browns and guardsman red offset with black and winter white
Fabric & knit: Leather and cashmere, country checks, satin and fur, silk faille, nubby tweeds and velvet made this collection a tactile affair
Print & pattern: A singular black and white abstract print worked into a soft shirt; woven plaid
Details & trims: Flat self bows at the waist of skirts, black velvet ribbon ties
Footwear: High-cut platform ankle boots in high-shine leather, calfskin or leopard print
Accessories: Hand-held boxy bags, envelope bags with long shoulder straps, fur bags with chain handles, calfskin belts and long leather gloves
Etro
Protected from the elements of a harsh winter, Etro’s woman is swathed in tactile wraps, fringed wools and rugged furs. With a raw, primitive edge to the collection, winter signals a tougher mood for the signature boho girl. “My inspiration was antique textiles - tapestry, haberdashery and carpets aged by time. There are a lot of primitive touches too - she is often wrapped up in blankets, cocooned and protected against the raw elements,” said Veronica Etro.
The look: Primitive ethnic
Silhouette: Soft structure, wrapped layers
Key items: Pant shapes are loosely voluminous, sometimes cropped or overlaid with split-panel skirts, while tops and dresses are wrapped around the body - cutting diagonally across shoulders and down around the waist with layer-tiered skirts; a similar effect is achieved with fringed blanket-wrap coats. Chunky rib poloneck sweaters are thick and heavy, while breezy printed chiffon or silk blouses are layered with fur gilets
Colours: Dark black, grey and midnight blue punctuated with orange, emerald green, ochre, gold and russetFabric & knit: Diffused wool plaids, grainy Donegal tweeds, tapestry-style jacquards, tartans, mannish pinstripes, crackle-glazed leather, fur-effect tufted wools, chunky ribbed knits; printed silks and chiffons, iridescent nylon Lurex, curly lamb
Print & pattern: Prints are characterised by a watery, faded or rusted quality. Tapestry motifs, reverse carpet prints, antique tile prints, paisleys cut-up and worked into stripes, a tufted wool trompe l’oeil, placement zigzags on black ground, border prints
Details & trims: Crewel-embroidered florals, wool fringing, silver coin embellishments. Fur sleeves and collars, wrapped tops and shawl-like shoulder drapes, turtlenecks
Footwear: Platform pointed loafers with chain detail, buckled boots with lamb linings, platform gladiator sandals
Accessories: Spike through-lobe earrings, Deco-style geometric earrings, amulet necklaces; skinny leather or chain belts; square hard-frame handbags, mohair slouch socks
Gianfranco Ferré
The architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright provided the inspiration for designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi this season - linear and graphic but not afraid of a sinuous curve, think Guggenheim. The collection followed these principals with pieces that were smooth and lean but at the same time cut sensuously over the feminine form.
The look: The ultimate in sophisticated luxury
Silhouette: Softly shaped columns, demure knee-lengths
Key items: It was a focused collection that was built on the repetition of a few repeated items - the high-necked shift dress cut just below the knee and often panelled in a faux top/skirt combination, wide-cut cabans with an off-centre fastening and upturned collar worn with low-slung belts to create the illusionof a dropped waist, and a pair of zipped ankle pants that were tapered and tailored. Other separates included an embroidered leather pencil skirt, organza blouses with cutaway shoulders, and a long-sleeved shell top with sheer/satin conceal-and-reveal stripes, while for evening sinuous gowns were softly columnar
Colours: Luxury pales - ivory, warm white and oyster highlighted with silver; intense darks of navy, onyx and purple
Fabric & knit: Silver lamé, panne velvet, superfine hammered crepe, worsted cashmere, silk wool blends, silk duchesse, ultralight stretch leathers, nappa, tulle, grosgrain, organza, iridescent blue chiffon; calfskin, astrakhan and curly lamb
Details & trims: Silver beadwork, ball-bearing studs and rows of wet-look bugle beads; shallow cowls, cutaway backs, turtlenecks, contrast waistbands, front-back fabric splicing, string/cord banding, spine-tracing zips, spaghetti straps
Footwear: Pointed courts (US: pumps), ankle boots in pieced leathers, calf-length boots with wide toplinesAccessories: Low-slung skinny belts, metal bow belts; round-cut metal-edged Moonlight bags in chamois suede or crocodile feature cabochons with black and ivory stones
Versace
It was a relatively low-key season for Donatella Versace - save for a few clouds of marabou feather and the odd gold button. Gone was the high-octane eveningwear, with a collection focused on real daywear, with military coats and plenty of LDDs (little day dresses).
The look: Streamlined Versace
Silhouette: Still body-conscious, but more demure lengths played down the usual sex appeal
Key items: Streamlined shift dresses were at the heart of the collection - some with high necks and a cutaway shoulder or a squiggle of coloured snakesin, others thick-strapped pinafores with a tulip placement appliqué; belted military coats with gold buttons were the other key motif, also worked into cropped cadet jackets worn with short flared skirts. Leatherwear included a fit-and-flare coat and a couple of snug-fitting jackets and box-pleated skirts in smooth slicked-black leather, and a skintight snakeskin LBD with contrast-coloured threaded leather details running down the sides. For evening there was more movement, with minidresses sprouting clouds of marabou feathers, a high-low hemmed gown with trailing silk chiffon and marabou skirt, and a slinky silver-beaded halterneck column with an unexpected marabou train
Colours: Black with white, gold, purple, jade green and single shots of poppy red and rich egg-yolk yellow
Fabric & knit: Wool crepe, felted cashmere, slicked leather, snakeskin, tactile suede, silk chiffon; black mink, fox, marabou, banded chinchilla, sheared rabbit
Print & pattern: A tulip motif with creeping stem
Details & trims: Gold military buttons, faux pockets with buttoned flaps, spliced fox-fur sleeves, leather chain links, snakeskin squiggles, suede-panelled scrolling tulip motif, cutaway backs, silver beading
Footwear: Calf-length sandal boots, either lace-up or fastened with gold buttons at the side
Accessories: Green fox-fur ruffs, belts with military-esque brass plaque buckles
C’N’C Costume National
There is probably no more commercial an item than the biker jacket, so the idea of reworking the piece into a full collection is a savvy one and bound to ensure all the cool girls keep the cash registers ringing next winter.
The look: Cool girls go biker
Silhouette: Layered with occasional flared swing shapes
Key items: Various reworked biker jackets - sleeveless gilets, classic with contrast sleeves or worked as a coat with a down-filled nylon hood and caped back. Short layered dresses featured peekaboo sheer panels at the chest, while pants were either signature skinny leathers or a long tailored flare
Colours: Biker black with tomato red or canary yellow; chestnut brown with grey
Fabric & knit: Leather, wool, brushed wool checks, fine open-mesh knits, ultra-sheer crepe
Details & trims: Flattened unzipped hoods created caped panels at the back of coats and jackets, proportional layering, fabric splicing in contrast texture and colour
Footwear: Pointed platform shooties
Accessories: Two-pocket clutch bags carried through the centre (in two sizes) and mini zip-round wallets carried as clutches
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