Live From... New York Womenswear, Day 2

Peter Som

A hip collection from PeterSom, who combined easy tailoring and strident colours with matt-shinefabrics and the plush touch of fur for a look that was perfect for sassy uptowngirls.
The look: Post modernist
Silhouette: Neatly tailored with addedvolume through fur placements
Key items: Tailoring was the key featureof this collection, worked in a femininely youthful way with cropped DB jackets- often with a wide square neckline, split-front A-line skirts worked to theknee, simple cigarette pants, and waisted DB tailleurs with a paddedhipline à la Jean Paul Gaultier. Simple coats and jackets came with voluminousfox-fur sleeves or back details, and the fur theme continued with Som’s luxemink-lined parkas. Dress shapes were simple, with waisted knee-length shifts,while for after-six dressing he showed crisp 60s-style cocktail dresses, or fora more uptown affair, a belted draped jersey goddess gown and a simple columnarsheath in wet-look paillettes
Colour: Black, grey and white formedthe crux of the palette, with post-modernist flashes of vermilion, marigold andcobalt blue, tempered by titanium grey, taupe and navy
Fabric & knit: Fluid wool suitings, metallicjacquard, wet-look paillettes, leather, cashmere flannels, broadtail, silkfaille, mink, silver fox
Print & pattern: A splashy abstract floral inshades of vermilion and grey or tones of blue; a Memphis-style post-modernistlinear print
Details & trims: Military pockets on jackets,fur sleeves, pleats
Footwear: Pointed kitten-heeled pumpswith contrast satin trim, contrast trim ankle boots

Rag & Bone womenswear

A playful collection from Rag& Bone with an almost futuristic bent, as Marcus Wainwright and DavidNeville played with the concepts of colour-blocking, pattern mixing andcocooning textures.
The look: Futuristic fashion tribes
Silhouette: Cocooning outerwear workedover short, sharp underlayers 

Key items: Fur sleeves trimmed simpleshrug-on coats, teamed with colour-blocked shorts and mini shifts. Quiltedbonded leggings added a futuristic feel, teamed with mixed plaid kilts,collegiate-style blousons or flannel biker jackets with cocooning shearlingcollars and fringed capes. And our futuristic princess moves into after-sixdressing, with a high-low-hem colour-blocked crystal-pleat pinafore dress inbold brights
Colour: Slabs of white and winterwhite with pale flannel grey, spliced with the brightest cobalt blue andvermilion, tempered by rich burgundy
Fabric & knit: Cocooning looped knits, warmbrushed flannels and shearling, jersey, traditional tartans, cowhide and tweed
Print & pattern: A geometric-style mask motifworked as an all-over on a cream ground
Details & trims: Toggle closures, fabric andcolour-blocking, contrast panels for silhouette definition
Footwear: Over-styled slouchyover-the-knee suede boots, ¾ leather/suede boots with blanket-stitch trims
Accessories: Colour-blocked over-the-kneesocks, fur pouch bags

Doo.Ri

            

Inspired by the work of artistBeverly Simmons, Doo.Ri Chung’s autumn/winter collection had an urban yet cozyfeel and featured monochromatic slouchy knits, luxe leather outerwear andelongated proportions. “The exaggeration of proportion is where I took my cuefrom,” she told WGSN. “When you see some of the leg, it makes the longerproportions seem even more pronounced. Playing off different layers withfluidity and movement is so important.”
The look: Urban nomad
Silhouette: Statuesque and fluid
Key items: Full-length cardigans and vests elongate slouchy cropped pants, whiletailored outerwear provides structure to draped jersey tops, chiffon dressesand chunky knit sweaters. High-cut slits on skirts and dresses, along withseaming on cigarette pants, elongate the gathered and voluminous oversizedcoats and jackets. On gowns, mesh cutouts, macramé embroidery and lace areunderstated and daring
Colour: Monochromatic neutrals of charcoal, heather grey, black and pumice
Fabric & knit: Super-soft cashmere and angora, wool flannel and jersey, modal,leather, chiffon and faux fur
Print & pattern: The collection was all about mixing textures and knit weights, and lessabout print and pattern
Details & trims: Leather cord piping offered smart finishings to outerwear, while macramé created a sexy spiderwebaffect on dresses and shirts. Mohair-embroidered lace was romantic and tactile
Footwear: Sky-high boots
Accessories: Gorgeous exaggerated mohair-fringe scarves

Jason Wu

Jason Wu was inspired by thebeautiful photographs taken in Robert Polidori’s book Parcours MuseologiqueRevisted, which documents the 25-year-long process of restoring Versailles.Juxtaposing Baroque excess with American sportswear, the collection featuresextravagant fabrics and dramatic silhouettes. “It was a labour of love, but Ireally felt like it was a time for opulence,” said Wu.
The look: Opulent sportswear
Silhouette: Tailored yet theatrical
Key items: The slim silhouettes seen on a standing-collar chiffon blouse worn withwool cigarette pants made Wu’s balletic sculpted skirts and voluminous dresseseven more dramatic. Sporty wool anoraks and blazers paired with tuxedo pantsmade the collection more wearable and showed off Wu’s ability to createfunctional separates. The gowns, including embellishment like gold paillettes,gold-leaf embroidery, burn-out ostrich feathers and jewel-toned colours, weretruly the show stoppers
Colour: Restrained black, white and nude with cerise pink, chartreuse,ultraviolet and gold
Fabric & knit: Flannel, wool, organza, cashmere, silk, jacquard and felt
Print & pattern: A playful falling-leaf pattern and feather print were layered withclassic houndstooth and striped lace
Details & trims: Wu used 15 types of lace in the collection, seen panelled on blouses,shirts and dresses, layered with chiffon and used as a feminine trim on boxywool blazers and coats. Colourful Swarovski-crystal embellishment gave casualanoraks and cropped jackets a bolero feel
Footwear: Gold-dipped pumps
Accessories: Wu’s collection of detailed accessories, including a grey flannelclutch embroidered with Swarovski crystals, satin clutches in royal blue, tealand bordeaux, and more casual cross-body totes in ivory and bordeaux leatherwere just as opulent as the clothing

Sally LaPointe

Sally LaPointe tapped into a futuristic Lady Gaga-ish vibe, with strong80s references that conjured up images of Thierry Mugler and Claude Montana, alittle at odds with the softer layered looks that are the emerging trends inNew York this week.
The look: 80s rock-chick storm troopers
Silhouette: Aggressive shoulder and hiplines
Key items: The pagoda-shouldered jacket and body-con dress were thekey pieces in this collection, along with hip-jutting bustiers andstorm-trooper all-in-ones, layered under sharp-shouldered crop tops, andsoftened with a touch of space-goddess drapes and a plush fur chubbie jacket.All teamed with high-shine Danskin-style leggings
Colour: A galactic palette of planetary silvers and greys shot withastral blues and a vivid terracotta and, of course, rock-chic black
Fabric & knit: Slithery satins, matt jerseys, bouclé, fox fur,quilted satins, leather or leather effects
Print & pattern: Feathered effects, photographic prints inblues and black
Details & trims: Jutting shoulderlines and padded hips
Footwear: Extreme storm-trooper covered platforms

Rebecca Taylor

Bright colours, playfulprints, feminine fabrics and womanly silhouettes evoke a 70s-inspired, discoglamour at Rebecca Taylor’s autumn/winter 2011/12 collection. “Jerry Hall’sstyle in the 70s and her look as a young model served as inspiration thisseason,” Taylor told WGSN. “Jerry’s free-spirited appeal and her ability toembrace femininity influenced the look. It is all about being chic.”
The look: Retro glamour
Silhouette: Feminine look with gentle surface attention and waist definition
Key items: Wrap skirts in an array of lengths, cutout shirts and dresses, andruched-waist dresses. Feminine, floor-sweeping dresses and playful proportion
Colour: Dusty shades of rose quartz and camel are offset by bold hits ofmagenta, deep teal and cobalt hues
Fabric & knit: Chiffon, silk and satin underscore the feminine approach of thecollection. Shearling, tweed, cashmere and flannel create a winter story
Print & pattern: All-over retro flower prints and abstract leopardpatterns
Details & trims: Playful ruffles, metallic embellishments, glossy trimsand beaded textures
Footwear: Clean uppers in bright colours accent the autumnal palette
Accessories: Skinny, feminine belts, oversized cuffs and vintage-inspired bags

Posted in: A/W 2011/12,Autumn/Winter,Doo.Ri,Jason Wu,NYFW,Peter Som,Rag and Bone,Rebecca Taylor,Sally LaPointe