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BCBG Max Azria
Relaxed layers and an unfettered silhouette came teamed with bold blocks of colour and graphic panel details at BCBG on the first full day of New York shows. "It was all about new silhouettes. We felt like dropped waists had a looseness and airiness," said chief creative officer Lubov Azria.
The look: Layered minimalism
Silhouette: Relaxed flowing tunic shapes
Key items: Draped kimono dresses worn over soft mock turtleneck bodysuits; low-slung voluminous handkerchief-hem dresses and skirts; oversized panelled outerwear with fur details; simple sheer maxis with mini underlay; deep V-neck wrap dresses and columnar maxi shifts
Colour: A tonal palette with flashes of brights provides a 70s-inspired colour collection including pumice, navy, white, taupe, mocha, black, tan and grey. Pops of tomato red, cobalt, mustard and peach added a youthful touch
Fabric & knit: Various silks including crepe, chiffon and devoré, as well as heavier wool qualities and faux fur
Print & pattern: Colour-blocking was a key detail, as well as colour panelling on lapels and waistbands. For prints, a diffused watercolour batik and digital galaxy pattern were used
Details & trims: Vibrant coloured piping, layered panels and cutaway shoulder details
Footwear: Sturdy, knee-high boots and sophisticated envelope bags and clutches
Accessories: Low-slung, multi-buckle belts in neutral beige, black and brown
Vena Cava
Vena Cava’s design duo Sophia Buhai and Lisa Mayock drew on early-90s influences for their autumn/winter offering, combining long grunge-inspired layers with a sense of vampy sex appeal. “We were really inspired by the fashion we wore in junior high. We were listening to a lot of Fiona Apple," said designers Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock.
The look: Parisian grunge
Silhouette: Long and lean
Key items: Square-necked maxi; oversized moto jacket; fringe cardigan with exaggerated shoulders; polka-dot swing dress; panelled suede jacket; leather pleated short; sheer maxiskirt with pleating or mini underlay; cropped biker jacket with distressed details; and high-waisted palazzo pant worn with off-the-shoulder crop top
Colour: Earthy tones dominated, including rust, terracotta and mud, contrasted with slate blue, navy, cream, black and white
Fabric & knit: Fabrics with movement such as rayon, silk jersey, silk crepe de chine, matt jersey and chiffon, along with rugged leather, suede and wool twill
Print & pattern: Polka dots, tribal stripes, bled-out watercolour stripes and lace
Details & trims: Self belts on dresses and high-waisted pants, leather-trimmed pockets and sexy waist cutoutsFootwear: The brand's collaboration with LA boutique Tenoversix offered low, lace-up wedges, grey and red Mary Janes, and pointy pumps with double ankle straps
Accessories: Cute berets, thick gold chokers and stacked gold cuffs
Rachel Comey
Mismatched proportions and a play on colour and pattern added a twist to Rachel Comey’s autumn/winter collection, where she combined feminine details with subtly masculine-inspired tailoring.
The look: Feminine and gamine
Silhouette: Boxy and A-line
Key items: Boxy A-line coats and jackets added a masculine slant to knee-length pleated skirts and simple shift dresses, often slashed to reveal a fan of sheer pleating at the knee. There was a pleasingly relaxed feel about Comey’s shrug-on knits, maybe layered over a cropped sweater and her new flared-hem cropped pant shapes, skating skirts or a plaid midi, all worked in mismatched colours, textures and prints for a random appeal
Colour: A rich palette of warm autumnal browns and pumpkin oranges contrasted with cool Wedgewood blues, French navy and smoky greys, with flashes of vivid kelly green and a vermillion to jazz things alongFabric & knit: Fluid silks and viscose, devoré, leather, velvet, corduroy, tartan, fur
Print & pattern: Exaggerated zigzag patterns brought the palette’s brights into play, contrasted with a diffused digital print, a sharply etched floral on a light ground, and abstracted skin patterns
Details & trims: Godets of sheer pleats, exaggerated lapels on tailoring and coats, split hemlines
Footwear: Low-heeled ankle-high cowboy boots, knee-high suede boots, zigzag-patterned high-heeled lace-ups, coloured suede platform lace-ups
Accessories: Skinny belts, suede or flannel totes with leather trims
Jenni Kayne
A pleasant go-anywhere collection from Jenni Kayne, which might not win any plaudits for ground-breaking design concepts but offered plenty of simple, easy-to-wear pieces for next winter.
The look: Laidback luxe
Silhouette: Simple and fluid
Key items: This collection was the sum of its parts, with simple thigh-high skirts and basic shift dresses reworked in luxe cashmere or lace, teamed with chunky cable knits or slouchy easy-fit coats. Two of the best exits teamed easy cabled tunic knits with either an ankle-skimming satin skirt, or came as a ribbed poloneck layered over a lace mini. A single double-breasted pant suit came as a short hip-grazing jacket and fluid flared pants, while two of the most memorable dresses were a leather shirt dress and a fuchsia crepe de chine wrap-front shift
Colour: Eye-popping fuchsia and vivid peacock blue popped a palette of laidback autumnal grenadine red, camel and caramel with a grounding of black and espresso
Fabric & knit: Cashmere, lace, leather, chalky striped brushed wools, silk satin and crepe de chine, sequins; fur trims
Print & pattern: This was a collection more about luxe textures than print
Footwear: The simplest flat slippers in velvet or suede
Accessories: Plush shearling beanies
Duckie Brown
Duckie Brown continued to rework the classics of a man’s wardrobe, giving them the modern contemporary twist that marks this label as one of the more forward menswear brands in the US. “The collection this season was inspired by us and by the lives we live,” said designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver. “After moving to Brooklyn recently we were influenced by this certain looseness that the place possesses.”
The look: Contemporary hybrid of sportswear functionality and smart aesthetics
Silhouette: Soft and relaxed classics with a twist
Key items: Brown’s design team sticks to the evolving theme of the relaxed, sportswear-inspired smart fashion. Multi-pleated trousers offer a new looser fit with dropped crotch and attention to the fabric texture. Draped fabrics create a specific sculptural effect applied to knitwear and trousers. Slimmer blazers and coats offset relaxed-fit bottomweights
Colour: Shades of warm and cool greys are offset with classic black and white combinations, hits of petrol blue and camel, and intricate print colour combinations
Fabric & knit: Flannel and wool, shearling, corduroy and cashmere
Print & pattern: Unique bruised tweed effects combined with modern camouflage-like pattern. Abstract geometric patterns
Details & trims: Sportswear-inspired drawstrings; pleats
Footwear: Combat-inspired lace-up boots
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