Live From... New York Menswear, Day 2

Perry Ellis

A truly autumnal and winterycollection, Perry Ellis’ John Crocco created quintessential cold-weatherwardrobe staples. “The inspiration this season came from the work of PhilipJohnson, and the lines and the rigid sensibility of his architecture.” Croccotold WGSN.
The look: American winter
Silhouette: Casual winter sportswear
Key items: Collegiate sportswear aesthetics underpinned this wintery, grown-upcollection, with an array of pull-over sweatshirts, shawl-collar cardigans andturtlenecks, paired with chalk-stripe trousers, wintery long johns and classicchinos. Trousers tucked into wool socks and tons of layering created an easy,relaxed and desirable collection
Colour: Shades of vintage-inspired greens were mixed with pewter, camel, oliveand charcoal shades. Crème, beige and all shades of grey were among the neutral bases
Fabric & knit: Luxury cashmere, wool and fine twill, cords and denim, goat suede andwool
Print & pattern: Minimal, all-over houndstooth and herringbone, chalkand pinstripe, plaid and an array of checks
Footwear: Rigid, lace-up winter boots
Accessories: Knit cap, fingerless gloves, taupe wool socks and a variety of ties

 

Tommy Hilfiger menswear

Tommy Hilfiger’s latestmenswear collection ticked all the season’s trend boxes, from his warm autumnalpalette to inclusion of the hot key items for the season ahead.
The look: Manhattan-meets-Vermont
Silhouette: Easy tailored silhouetteswith a country casual appeal
Key items: Easy duffel coats and cabanslayered over chunky poloneck sweaters, teamed with the casual ease of a pull-onjogger or a wide-legged pleat-front pant. Tailoring featured as 2SBs or sharpDB styling, brought down to earth when layered with mélanged knits and narrow cargopants. Outerwear came as colour-blocked cabans or blousons, fur-collaredcrombies or reversible trench coats, and a slick two-tone leather blouson.Tuxedos too were played down when teamed with pinstripe trousers and thecontrast of a casual checked shirt
Colour: A rich autumnal palette ofleafy ochres and browns, with warm berry reds, charcoal and inky blues
Fabric & knit: Traditional wools andflannels combined with chunky mélanged knits, corduroy, shearling and leather
Details & trims: Duffel toggles on knits andaccessories
Footwear: Contrast-rand boots and shoes
Accessories: Knitted cowls and scarveswith duffel-toggle trims, fishing hats, pocket hankies, fingerless gloves,cross-body satchels

Rag & Bone menswear

The sartorial elegance of theDuke of Windsor inspired many menswear collections this season, perhaps intribute to the upcoming Madonna-directed film WE. In Marcus Wainwright andDavid Neville’s capable hands, the Rag & Bone tongue-in-cheek deviation onthe Duke of Windsor style brought in touches of all-American styling.
The look: The Duke ofWindsor-meets-American collegiate
Silhouette: Multi-layered
Key items: Soft-shouldered SB tailoredjackets were teamed with pleat-front full-legged pants, quilt waistcoats(vests: US), shirts and polo-shirt knits, or alternatively came with plus foursor kilts. Less sartorial but very covetable was a cowhide duffle coat and slickbiker, the casual plaid cabans, and the colour-blocked collegiate baseballjackets with chunky cable knits
Colour: Vivid brights added awhimsical touch to this collection, with winter white offset with scarlet,olive, bright cadmium yellow and cobalt
Fabric & knit: Brushed blanket wools andchecks, classic tartans and herringbones, plaid suitings, cowhide, suede,flannels and tweed
Print & pattern: Woven plaids and checks
Details & trims: Contrast binding, nylon orleather pockets, collegiate appliquéd badges
Footwear: Exaggerated rands on classicoxfords and oxford ankle boots
Accessories: Shallow-crown bowlers,sporran bags, cravats

Posted in: A/W 2011/12,Autumn/Winter,menswear,NYFW,Perry Ellis,Rag and Bone men,Tommy Hilfiger