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D&G
It was a riotous rave over at D&G where the colours and lettered logos of 80s clubwear provided Milan with an awakening electric shock. More than slightly reminiscent of Missoni’s mis-step of a spring/summer 2011 show, this collection tackled the same taste issues, while keeping it buzzy, youthful and fun – which after all are the hallmarks of the D&G brand.
The look: 90s logo mania
Silhouette: Tube thin with oversized outerwear
Key items: Knee-length knitted tube dresses and stretchy pencil skirts – some with a longer chiffon skirt trim - were recurring items, as were cropped sweaters, printed leggings and skinny pants; elsewhere there were kangaroo-pocketed sloppy sweaters, untucked silk shirts and loose silk cardigans. Outerwear was oversized, arriving either as big statement parkas in fur or printed silk with wildly coloured fur lining, or low-breaking DB boyfriend blazers worked as mannish coats. For party time, there were straight-cut sheer black dresses cut just below the knee, embellished with large-scale sequinned letters. The finale parade offered oversized silk tees or fitted cotton T-shirts worn with cloud-like marabou miniskirts
Colours: Crazy multi-colourings - neon brights on graphic black, candy colours on marl grey
Fabric & knit: Printed silk and chiffon, letter logoed jacquard knits, shrunken wool, stretch cotton jersey, fur and teddy-bear fleece, marabou feathers, cotton, habutai silk
Print & pattern: Bands of random letters in multicolours
Details & trims: Fur or printed silk coat linings, sequinned letters, deep V-necklines, chiffon pussy bows, kangaroo pockets, drawstrings
Footwear: Wedge-heeled hi-top sneakers with a contrast toe, in bright colours or black and white
Accessories: Small chain-handled bags carried as clutches (the Anja bag), bijoux jewellery with big letter charms, wispy patterned scarves
Prada
With Prada it's foolish to tout just one period of reference, because here things are never that obviously thematic. Still, this season’s sleeveless shifts, drop-waisted girlishness and colour-blocked checks did hint at a 60s infusion.
The look: 60s dolly with a girlish subtext
Silhouette: Short and drop-waisted
Key items: Fit-and-flare coat-dresses, straight-cut shifts, and collared shirt dresses all featured a dropped waist, accentuated with a low-placed belt or martingale; sleeveless shifts were offered in colour-blocked paillettes, some featuring fur trims or a short capelet over the shoulders; a series of oversized dome-shaped coats in polished snakeskin with wide cropped sleeves and exaggerated clover-leaf lapels
Colour: Black and navy with lipstick red or teal; white, cosmetique nude blush, vapour grey; autumnal colours of marigold yellow, burnt orange and russet
Fabric & knit: Bonded wool, teddy fur, organza, large transparent and colour-tinted paillettes, polished snakeskin
Print & pattern: Large-scale windowpane checks and coloured Mondrian-style grids
Details & trims: Silver buttons on outerwear, oversized childlike plastic buttons and buckles on dresses, contrast collars, low cut-away backs and buttoned martingales, transparent tinted oversized pailettes layered as scales, fur trims and sleeves, oversized clover-leaf lapels on coats, off-centre buttoning
Footwear: Tall snakeskin boots – some ending in a new mid-calf length, with shaped heels; suede sock boots with faux Mary Jane shoe
Accessories: Sporty skull caps fastened under the chin, goggle-like tinted bug-eye sunglasses, short elastic-cuffed suede gloves, fox fur stoles, hand-strapped clutch bags
Albino
“I was inspired by New York and the American art scene from the 50s through to the 80s, Rothko to Haring,” designer Albino D'Amato told WGSN. But when the collection did arrive, those strong arts influences were barely readable, save for a few multicoloured spots and stripes towards the end. Instead the clothes acted as a blank canvas for simple shape, used to promote an exploration into grainy, furry or tufted texture. “There was a lot of focus on texture because the shapes are really simple – straight tubes or a slight trapeze, set against texture – there were no plain fabrics.” Albino D'Amato
The look: 50s-infused ladylike dressing
Silhouette: Simple shapes cut away from the body and soft structured swing
Key items: The collection worked best at its simplest – tweedy T-shirt dresses, a single-sleeved wool tee worn with skinny drainpipe pants or any of the collarless swing coats; elsewhere there were cropped jackets hemmed in fox, fur pencil skirts, tailored and cropped pants featuring tufted knee panels and dresses with cut-away backs and an over-complicated ruffled tier falling from the back of the shoulder
Colour: Shaded nuances of brown and cream; dense saxe blue, multicoloured prints on black – tomato red, emerald green, magenta and light blue
Fabric & knit: Glittery lurex-shot tweed, grainy herringbone and houndstooth tweed, wool jacquard, dense ribbed knits, double-folded neoprene, mohair, fil coupé lurex tinsel, silk, stiff wool gazar, fox
Print & pattern: Painterly macro polka dots and large-scale stripes in diagonal or chevron placements – both on black grounds
Details & trims: Cut-away backs hanging away from the body, tufted fibres used in placement panels on pants or banded skirt hems, faux skirt-and-top detailing on the back of dresses, randomly positioned fox fur trims, cut fil coupé tinsel-like fringing, kimono sleeves
Footwear: Pointed courts with skinny ankle strap, with textile uppers
Luisa Beccaria
With a strong eveningwear sensibility, Luisa Beccaria never usually strays too far from her delicately ethereal aesthetic. But there was a notable new drive for daywear this season, which focused on tailoring and neat knitwear, as she bathed her girls in a palette of shimmering gold, inspired by Byzantine mosaics.
The look: Pretty as a picture
Silhouette: Sinuously feminine in demure lengths
Key items: Two tailored skirts suits opened the show – one sleeved and one sleeveless, both long-line and trimmed in fur, later came wide-leg pants or pencil skirts topped with textured cardigans or a polo-neck knit tank, and a host of elegant outerwear - from a through-belted cape to an elongated wool pea coat in a glazed silver finish and a softly fluted midi-length coat with a scrolling ruffle collar. Cocktailwear offered a lustrous gold duchesse dress with gathered waist, a tailored off-the-shoulder sheath with box detail and a pantsuit in gilded floral jacquard. Despite the extended daywear offer, eveningwear is Beccaria’s forte and this season she offered exquisite fluted gowns in finest Chantilly lace and barely there embroidered tulle, but a couple of options in millefeuille organza ribbons and tiered plissé frills looked overworked and awkward
Colour: Gold and metallic sunbeam pales, ivory, blush, ballet pink, mauve and lavender
Fabric & knit: Herringbone tweed, compact wool, glittery knits, taffeta, duchesse, gold Chantilly lace, crepe, georgette, ribbons
Print & pattern: Vintage roses, foiled gold overpainting
Details & trims: Lettuce-edged sunburst pleats, jewelled shoulder tabs, scrolling collars on coats, gold sequinned embroideries, cut-away backs, millefeuille layers
Footwear: Block-heeled platforms with an ankle strap in mixed metallic leathers
Accessories: Gold lace headscarves and bejewelled tulle chokers
Bluegirl
Blugirl was onto a winner this season. An elegantly grown-up collection ticked several of next winter's trend boxes, albeit it for the more sophisticated customer, with a palette of vivid colour, luxe-touch fabrics and ladylike silhouettes.
The look: A day at the races
Silhouette: Elegantly ladylike and tailored
Key items: Outerwear was a key feature of the collection, with tailored SB coats, DB trenches and subtle military styling, as well as the cape in every manifestation - from a sassy shoulder cape in green shearling to decorous tailored looks. Knitwear was casually styled, coming as knitted cardigan jackets with suede or rabbit fur trim or as luxe cashmere fine-gauge hooded cardigans – all layered with slick to-the-knee pencil skirts and cropped jodhpur-style pants. Print and pattern had an equine feel, worked as silk blouses or soft-waisted dresses with the house's signature skin prints coming into play as an alternative option. And for evenings celebrating in the winner's enclosure, a series of little black dresses in the finest chiffon and Chantilly lace with capes of layered organza ribbon
Colour: A fulsome palette that spanned the season's autumnal colours with camel, tan, all shades of pumpkin and soft caper green, moving through to vibrant jockey-silk brights like cobalt, strawberry pink and daffodil yellow, all grounded with black
Fabric & knit: The emphasis was on luxe cashmere offset with tactile shearling, leather and furs, with silk twill for dresses and blouses and delicate chiffon and Chantilly lace for evening looks
Print & pattern: An equine print featuring bridle and saddle motifs; a painterly conversational pattern of horses and their riders; re-coloured leopard prints
Details & trims: Crystal trims, fur trims, suede edging on knitwear
Footwear: Snakeskin ankle strap high-heeled courts, slouchy suede and fur boots
Accessories: Coloured clutch bags and purses, tasselled necklaces, long gloves, three-quarter-length socks, double skinny snakeskin belts, colour-blocked high-crown trilbies
MaxMara
Clean, modern and simple were the hallmarks of MaxMara's deluxe winter looks, with subtle rustic overtones in the form of plaid and check, kilted shapes and casual mink-trimmed parkas. But it was the minimal lines and subtle fabric mixing that stamped the collection with its luxurious simple look.
The look: Modern rustic
Silhouette: Lean and minimal
Key items: Outerwear ruled the day. Strong minimal silhouettes were stripped of buttons or detailing, with lean duffel hybrids, asymmetric-wrap tailored silhouettes caught with a single strap and buckle at the hip, a narrow biker-inspired coat and the softer appeal of a fringed blanket wrap. Neat-waisted suits continued the sparse feel, clasped at the waist with a flat-buckled belt, and dresses were worked in tonal fabric mixes of brushed wool with matt cashmere panels in shades of white. Simple bustier dresses and wrap skirts came in sequinned plaids and there was a final luxe touch in the parkas and coats with their mink skirts – all teamed with simple jersey leggings
Colour: A muted palette of cool whiter white, paper white and putty added a quiet reflective feel to the look, working well with the collection's minimal shapes. Punctuated with inky blues, black, camel and classic flannel grey and the softer accents of poudre, bois de rose and primrose yellow
Fabric & knit: Luxury wools were top of the agenda here with brushed finishes contrasted with the smoothest cashmere and double-faced effects. Leather and ponyskin, mink, calfskin and lamb added to the luxe appeal of the collection
Print & pattern: Checks and plaid reworked in sequins and beaded effects
Details & trims: Flat patent or leather straps with silver buckles, fringed trims
Footwear: Flat winter white lace-ups with a white sole, ponyskin courts
Accessories: Hand-held flat-bottomed bags in leather or ponyskin
Fendi
Karl Lagerfeld took a walk in the country for his latest collection for Fendi, albeit it a rather sophisticated one. Rustic looks were full of innovative fur, autumnal-shaded wool and mismatched texture.
The look: A walk in the Black Forest
Silhouette: Multilayered and A-line
Key items: Throw-on fur coats and gilets brought a luxe touch to Lagerfeld's layered wool and tweed. Boxy A-line coats and short swingy jackets were overlaid with statement pockets, ruched elasticated sleeves and wide revers. Soft dirndl culottes and cropped cuffed pants came with simple shell tops, decorated with a frisson of bias ruffle at the neck in a sculpted take on a jabot, while flecked sweaters and a knitted tracksuit – incongruously teamed with heeled Mary Janes – added in the cocooning comfort factor. For evening it was back to black, with prim-and-proper dresses in lustred sequins offset with the sheerest tulle sleeves pinpricked with microscopic gold beading
Colour: A rich autumnal palette of wood-shaded browns and neutrals, teamed with golden ochre, sapphire blue and burgundy with a grounding of black
Fabric & knit: Luxe furs worked in feathered bands of muted colour, tipped with glow-worm pricks of light or tufted into tweedy effects layered over dense bouclé, soft cashmere, double-faced wool, leather and flannel. Sheer blouses and lustrous satin offered a more decorative look along with low-shine sequins for evening
Print & pattern: Checks on sheer grounds
Details & trims: Ruffled jabot necklines, vivid-coloured buttonholes, metallic buttons, contrast piling, alligator cuffs, fabric pockets on knitted bottomweights
Footwear: High-heeled brogued Mary Janes in brightly coloured patent
Accessories: Ribbed tights added a splash of colour, felted hairbands, felt tote bags with raw leather straps, boxy hand-held bags
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