Live From... Paris Fashion Week, Day 1

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten loves to mix the masculine with the feminine, but this time femininity came out on top, with a series of silky kimono dresses delicately tinted in pastel degradés and painted with large Chinese blooms.

"This collection is about 40s elegance, 90s conceptual fashion and the quirky feeling of the 70s. The iconic item is really the white shirt. I think I made that quite clear by using white poplin shirts everywhere - on top of pants or wrapped as skirts. I also referenced Chinese porcelain for the prints, which we bleached or faded out," Dries Van Noten told WGSN.
The look: Signature masculine/feminine interplay
Silhouette: Oversized proportions
Key items: Oversized masculine items such as wide-leg slacks and jeans, extra-large shirts and longline blazers or overblown coats and jackets; breezy kimono dresses or tunics, the latter worn over the wide-leg pants; softly belted sleeveless tailored jackets with signature wrap-over closures; poplin shirts worn with high-waisted midi-length pencil skirts or transposed into skirts with the sleeves wrapped around the waist; chiffon kaftan-like caped tops or sheath-dress overlays worn over straight-cut shirtdresses; DB jackets with satin shawl lapels
Colour: Delicately shaded pastel degradés - pink/purple, beige/ash grey, nude/yellow or peach/apple green; white, lemon, steely blue-grey, navy, ice blue, champagne neutrals and iridescent metallics
Fabric & knit: Silk, satin, crumpled papery cottons, poplin, linen, silk chiffon, bleached denim, silver waffle piqué
Print & pattern: Florals inspired by Chinese porcelain - placement blooms and budding stems on degradé grounds, ghosted and bleached-out floral prints
Details & trims: Dropped sleeves, sheer overlays, iridescent sequins and gold convex disc-shaped paillettes, denim sleeves on navy wrap jacket, satin lapels and buttons
Footwear: Signature shoe shape with wide heel and thin platform - two-strap mules, Mary Janes, closed-toe sling-backs or multi-strap sandals in dusted suedes, printed silk or iridescent metallics
Accessories: Extra-long thin belts, sunglasses with chunky resin frames, a marabou stole, simple clutch bags in washed leather or iridescent metallics

Guy Laroche

Designer Marcel Marongiu presented a well-rounded if unadventurous spring/summer collection for Guy Laroche, working several of the season's key pieces and colour directions into his subtly flavoured military-inspired look. 
The look: Low-key military
Silhouette: Relaxed and unstructured, combining soft drape with easy boxy shapes
Key items: The military trench came with sleeveless detailing, a casual look to team with highrise easy-cut cropped pants, soft asymmetric draped tunic tops and louche all-in-ones. Dresses were key to the collections, coming with deep V-wrap necklines or asymmetric draped details and as simple fit-and-flare shifts. Shorts and above-knee buttoned pencil skirts were the alternative bottomweights, worked with second-skin jersey tees and tops
Colour: Cool neutral base colours - sand, taupe, ivory and honey - contrasted with navy, teal and aquas, as well as ultramarine, marigold and sherbet with a flash of black
Fabric & knit: Sheers as overlays or as print grounds, summer suede, jersey, sequins and stretch wovens
Print & pattern: A regular repeat honeycomb-style mosaic print contrasted with a dramatic painterly abstract all-over in tones of blue or orange
Details & trims: Asymmetric draped panels, sash-tie waists, draping
Footwear: High vampy ankle-strap platforms
Accessories: Boxy totes, slouchy hobos, double-buckle military leather belts


Rue du Mail

Martine Sitbon's signature is to fuse femininity with a rock 'n' roll edge, and for summer this transpired through the delicate tulle overlays in sparky neon colours and sexy slashed ribbon dresses.
"I started with the colour range. I wanted to work with primary colours and neon - something electric. The other key point was that it had to be light, so all the draped dresses and construction was done in tulle on top of silk or lamé T-shirt shapes," Martine Sitbon told WGSN.
The look: Delicate femininity
Silhouette: Form-fitted
Key items: A variety of fitted sheath dresses with pleated, ruched or embroidered tulle overlays; spaghetti-srapped cocktail dresses with frilly bibs or large coiled ruffles placed at the neck; neat pencil skirts; body-con slashed-ribbon dresses; tailored top and dress with string-lacing details at the back, sides and a plunging neckline; elongated sleeveless tux jackets worn with straight-leg pants or the shift dresses; a flare-skirted soft-belted mac or sleeveless options in jacket lengths
Colour: Neon red and yellow, vivid parrot green, electric cobalt blue, saffron, nude, chestnut brown, black
Fabric & knit: Tulle, crepe, stretch cotton and silk, lurex-woven sheers, silk, lamé
Print & pattern: Diffused and blurred checks
Details & trims: Pin-tucked, ruched or pleated tulle, tufted feather-like fringing, slashed ribbons; ruffled bibs; double-layer revers, sculpted and coiled ruffles
Footwear: Mary Janes in either brown leather or red satin


Rochas

Inspired by a trip to Fjakelmyra in Sweden, designer Marco Zanini - who is himself half-Swedish - drew reference from local folk art and the modest austerity of traditional Swedish dressing.
"The quiet spirit of Sweden pervades the collection, and I find in the modesty of certain Swedish people the key to an elegance which is very composed and severe, yet soft and sweet at the same time," Marco Zanini told WGSN.
The look: Chic hausfrau
Silhouette: Modest elongated lengths with the occasional burst of crinoline-shaped volume
Key items: Midi-length straight-cut sheath skirts or midi-cropped pants worn with tailored tanks with flared peplum; bell-skirted crinoline dresses; loose pyjama sets of cropped pants and long shirt; unstructured house coats; silk-panelled button-through cardigans; dropped-waist full-skirted dresses; midi-length dirndls and buttoned-to-the-neck silk shirts. For the finale, a series of languid spaghetti-strapped slip-dresses and bias-cut gowns
Colour: Strong royal blue, dark ochre, chestnut brown and a splash of chartreuse against white, antique cream, silvery dove grey, midnight blue and black
Fabric & knit: Silk was the core fabric, arriving in varieties such as silk satin, taffeta, hand-punched shantung and a lightweight woven raw silk. Chiffon, slubby linen weaves, crinkled treated cotton, loose hand knits, knitted sheers, suede
Print & pattern: The exclusive prints were a collaboration with Swedish folk artist Slotts Barbro and featured rows of houses, flag-waving knights on horseback and poetic phrases from French writer Françoise Sagan. A three-bud peony floral was taken from the early 20th century Bucol archive. Tea-stained grounds and dye effects
Details & trims: Silk-covered buttons, spaghetti straps, crinoline skirt shaping
Footwear: Mid-heel lace-up shoes or sling-back peep toes, flat mannish oxfords in polished black leather
Accessories: Handmade silk peony brooches made by LeMarié, printed silk headscarves, flat shoppers, single-strap framed handbags, round tortoiseshell-framed sunglasses


Gareth Pugh

The renegade British designer opted to show his spring/summer collection in a film format directed by Ruth Hogben, and featuring model Kristen McMenamy. The film will then be launched on Nick Knight's Showstudio.com and made accessible to a global audience.
"I feel with this season that I have taken a leap of faith: I was very determined to do something pure and focused... and as always a slightly subversive sense of humour," Pugh declared in his press release.
The look: Armoured
Silhouette: Sculpted body-con
Key items: Samurai-like armoured body-con pieces worked alongside sculpted asymmetric wrap jackets with strict peplums and strongly tailored shoulderlines. There were McQueen-like influences at play too in the fit-and-flare silver dresses or the op-art dresses with bunched asymmetric hems and the frock coats layered over narrow leggings or shorts
Colour: Marble grey and alabaster with graphic black and silver
Fabric & knit: Pugh likes to push the boundaries, and he used silicone-coated jersey on Neoprene and rubberised PVC on stretch jersey to construct his sculpted shapes. He also used aluminium-coated nylons and hand-cut reflective silver
Print & pattern: A graphic Bridget Riley-style op-art print in graphic black and white
Footwear: Black platform shoe boots with cutout fronts and zippers
Accessories: Simple silver quilted bags

Damir Doma

Only in his second season, Damir Doma is still shaping his womenswear offer, trying hard to delineate it from his original menswear line. "The last thing I want is a unisex brand," said the designer. This exploration of femininity led him to focus on three key points - exposed skin, veiled sheers and the waist.

"I think the whole collection was about femininity, which is something I started last season but takes time to evolve. Construction was focused around the waist and it all sat much closer to the body than the things I have done before," Damir Doma told WGSN.

The look: Soft minimalism

Silhouette: Signature nomadic draping against sharp angular tailoring

Key items: Bias-cut columnar dresses that twist around the body; asymmetrically draped and twisted dhoti pants; form-fitted sheer maxidresses and midi-length skirts; cropped jersey tops worn with high-waisted mini skirts or tapered pants drawn tight at the ankle; batwing-sleeved kimono jackets with blouson drape at the back; blanket wraps and billowing robe coats. The more fluid and draped pieces were offset with elongated tailored jackets (sometimes sleeveless), or abbreviated tailored jackets with pointed/dipping closures. A wide-cut wrap-over samurai-style jacket was also a notable piece

Colour: The core palette of flaxen neutrals, cool greys and black was lifted with the use of a bright yellow-orange inspired by the robes of Buddhist monks. Occasional hints of bitter chocolate brown and dark khaki also appeared

Fabric & knit: Cotton drill, jersey, woven blanket wools, textured silk jacquard, silk mesh sheers, watery satin

Print & pattern: A dappled grey degradé effect

Details & trims: Caped backs left to fly loose, back cowl drapes, knotted and wrapped sash waists, open fold detail at the back of tailored jackets, asymmetric drapes pulled to one side, jingling metal rings

Footwear: Heeled shooties, sling-backs and peep-toe flats all featuring a wide cross-leather construction, sometimes with a knotted detail

Accessories: Super-wide belts with double buckle, ribbed bracelets and cuffs

Anne Valérie Hash

Anne Valérie Hash has gone from strength to strength since showing on the RTW runways rather than on the couture schedule, and for spring/summer she honed her particular brand of poetic romanticism with a quietly beautiful collection full of weightless femininity.
The look: Poetically feminine
Silhouette: Soft and caressing with lightweight millefeuille layering
Key items: The soft pant was a key item within the look, but it acted as a soft grounding force for gently ruched and gathered tops, simple edge-to-edge shrug-on jackets and ruffled tees. Dresses were as light as air, lapping the body in ethereal smoke-like layers or falling into high-low hems from an asymmetric shoulderline, while millefeuille sheers layers were transposed into short tutu skirts
Colour: A palette of light-saturated colours help evoke the weightless mood, with smoke greys, sun-kissed peachy tints, poudre pinks and duck-egg blue grounded with black and a flash of malachite green
Fabric & knit: Layers of mousseline, georgette, washed silks and cotton, teamed with washed leather, metallic-yarn crochet and tarnished metallic tissues
Details & trims: Inside-out seam details
Footwear: High strappy sandals with deep wooden platforms
Accessories: Braces (US: suspenders)

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Live From... Milan Fashion Week, Day 6

Roberto Cavalli

Celebrating his 40th anniversary this season, Roberto Cavalli did away with his usual big-cat prints in favour of slinky snakeskin and slitheringly skintight clothes, given swingy movement with an abundance of on-trend fringing. 
The look: Reptilian rock goddesses
Silhouette: Maxi lengths all the way; second-skin bodies and exposed midriffs
Key items: Cutaway halterneck maxidresses with dropped-waist skirts sitting low on the hips and exposing the midriff; sleeveless jackets and short waistcoats worn with second-skin lace-up hipster pants with a slight flare at the ankle; printed button-up shirts in silk chiffon; tiny bra tops or printed bikinis worn with hip-slung maxi skirts; string-strapped crop tops worn beneath a peaked-shoulder leather/skin jackets
Colour: Pale vapour greys, ice blue, blush pink and jet black
Fabric & knit: Raw-edged python and alligator skins, suede, slicked leather, satin, printed silk chiffon, linen, laddered and crochet knits, macramé
Print & pattern: Cavalli steered clear of his signature big-cat animal prints, opting instead for trompe l’oeil pieced snake or alligator skins and collaged feathers, including spotted guinea and a striped feather that almost resembled tiger
Details & trims: Lashings of fringe - plaited/braided, beaded or degradé; whipstitching, leather-cord lacing, patchworking and pieced skins, macramé, sheer panels, sequinned snake patterning on sheer chiffon base, beading, crochet inserts, patchworked lace
Footwear: Barely there crisscross-laced sandal boots and matching flat sandals
Accessories: Fringed cord-wrap bracelets, gold and silver beaded stacked bangles, necklaces made of tangled or plaited chains and leather thong fringing, macramé fringe collar-necklaces hung from metal rings, fringed and tasselled long-strapped shoulder bags, and low-slung across-body messengers


DSquared

Dean and Dan Caten did away with their fast and fetishistic looks from winter and opted for the casual appeal of boyfriend-dressing this season, drawing on the subtle sex appeal of an unbuttoned shirt or a sweater-and-miniskirt combo. 
The look: Borrowed from the boys
Silhouette: Masculine, relaxed fits
Key items: Androgynous ensembles such as a boyfriend blazer - complete with natty pocket kerchief - worn over a satin pelmet-hemmed slipdress, a chambray shirt worn open with mannish wide-leg slacks, or a simple boyfriend sweater teamed with a silk shirt and mini skirt. Masculine DB suits and satin tuxedos for evening; plenty of shorts - short boy shorts, plaid walking shorts or casual rolled denim shorts. A minimal soft-belted mac with turned-up boyfriend-cut jeans; flat-front cropped pants and a croc-leather bomber jacket; swing coats; crisp white shirts paired with A-line miniskirts with single open pleat at the front. For evening, reworked formalwear including a dress-shirt-inspired bib-front satin dress and a plissé maxiskirt with thigh-high split worn with a waistcoat-cape hybrid
Colour: Crisp white, cigarillo browns, dark denim and navy blues and faux nudes, flashes of royal blue or jade green, black for evening
Fabric & knit: Cotton poplin, silk, satin charmeuse, chequerboard-woven grosgrain ribbon, chambray, dark-wash denim, even plaid, polished crocodile leather, neat mid-gauge knits, a chunky open-stitch knit
Print & pattern: Scarf print on silk - a check pattern made up of belts, chains and ribbons
Details & trims: All-over sequins and bead patterning, flower beads, chequerboard-woven grosgrain ribbon decorated with paste jewels and clear plastic rings, fine Chantilly lace trims, cutwork embroidery
Footwear: Simple crisscross-strapped leather sandals, diamante-studded T-bar heels, flat masculine brogues either in polished dark brown leather or two-tone - worn with slouchy ankle socks
Accessories: Geek-chic opticals and sunglasses, long fine-chain necklaces, hip-slung belts with chain fastening, silk neck scarves, straw trilbies, minimal open-top leather totes with double handle, briefcase-inspired formal bags with traditional concertina construction


Giorgio Armani

Inspired by the Tuareg people of North Africa, Giorgio Armani's monotone collection was played out in a range of blue hues representing the shades of night-time desert skies, while silhouettes were long, lean and layered. 
The look: Blue nomads
Silhouette: Long and lean with the occasional swing flare
Key items: Square-shouldered blazers in smooth slicked leathers paired with sheer cowl-necked tops; nipped-waist DB tailleurs layered with flared tunics and softly tailored tapered-leg pants; cropped edge-to-edge jackets, collarless zip-through jackets with curved cutaway closures; a spaghetti-strap corset top with bow detail; signature waistcoats worn as tops; one-shouldered or strapless column gowns for evening
Colour: A palette of moody blues ranging from lustrous prussian blue to rich inky navy and shadowy midnight blue-black in monotone matt/shine mixes
Fabric & knit: Satin, silk jacquard, slicked leather, wool mohair, lace-like knits, high-shine metallic gazar, taffeta, chiffons sheers, silk
Details & trims: Braided frogging, crystals, sequins and couture-like beaded embroideries inspired by the night-time desert skies
Footwear: Open-weave heeled pumps with lace-up detail and shrunken forepart platforms; satin courts with bow trims; signature flat pumps
Accessories: Tuareg turbans, wire-framed sunglasses with graded lenses, wide soft leather belts, metallic neckscarves, shirt cuffs, stacked bracelets and bangles, Berber-inspired jewellery including amulet necklaces decorated with enamelled moths or jewelled scorpions, chainmail collars, large flat glass bead necklaces

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Live From... Milan Fashion Week, Day 5

 Dolce & Gabbana

After celebrating their 25th anniversary last season with a retrospective hit parade of signature looks, Dolce & Gabbana almost seemed to start afresh with their summer collection, conceptually wiping the slate clean with an all-white collection - save for a splash of leopard print or sexy black - all crafted in the most exquisite variants of Sicilian lace.
The look: The collection was titled Sicilian Sensuality
Silhouette: Tailored sheath versus swingy peasant
Key items: Abbreviated jackets with bracelet-length sleeves paired with short swingy skirts or tailored pencil sheath dresses ending below the knee; unstructured duster coats and cardigan-jackets; sheer peasant blouses and dresses with blouson volume at gathered waists or puffed sleeves; gaucho pants, smock tops, petticoat dresses, frilled-hem bloomers and pretty playsuits, sleeveless boleros, knitted edge-to-edge jackets, wide-strapped sundresses, slim-fitting tailleurs, cropped tops; a finale of lingerie-inspired chemises, slip dresses, petticoats and corset-and-maxi brief sets
Colour: White, white and more white, with a dash of black and natural-coloured leopard skinFabric & knit: White Sicilian lace, embroidered sheers, cutwork cottons and broderie, cotton tatting lace, crochet, lustrous silk, chiffon and georgette
Print & pattern: Leopard animalia, traditional yellow floral with creeping stems - on white ground
Details & trims: White lace appliqués on leopard or sheer, broderie panels, scalloped hems, crystal diamond trims and twinkling silver rhinestones, corset lacing
Footwear: Wooden platform high-heeled sling-backs in clear plastic, decorated with white crochet lace flowers or mules with rosette detail
Accessories: Signature Miss Sicily handbags in white cotton lace; clear plastic formal handbag with lace appliqué; small across-body bags with chain strap decorated with gold coins and dangling jewels; crochet clutch bags in gold lurex yarns and diamond crystal trim or white knitted crochet with gold chain inlays; gold hoop earrings; chandelier earrings with paste stones and jewels; gold cluster necklaces and bracelets or fine gold necklaces with small cross pendants


Marni

Consuelo Castiglioni continued with her own distinctive brand of madcap mixology at Marni yesterday, this time with a strong sports theme to give her offbeat aesthetic a punchy graphic twist.
The look: Graphic sports 
Silhouette: Elongated layers and dropped waists
Key items: Trapeze tunics over cycling shorts; long-line zip-through scuba tops with asymmetric pelmet ruffle; laser-cut leather coats; collareless dropped-sleeved jackets and coats cinched at the waist with double belts; two-tone scuba treggings cropped mid-calf, or cropped pants with double-ruffle cuffs; wide-cut tees with narrow stand-up collar; tunic dresses with asymmetric double-ruffled hems; macramé lace minidresses; curved-hem leather A-line dress; criss-cross laced knitted long-sleeved sweaters; tops with flouncy dropped-waist peplums
Colour: Trademark bold colour combinations such as parrot green with beige and tan; pink and purple with orange; royal blue and sunshine yellow edged in black; flashes of salmon or blush pinks and neon orange
Fabric & knit: Laser-cut leather, dense stretch knits, jersey, crumpled linen, cotton, Aertex mesh, gauzy organza sheers
Print & pattern: Tropical-coloured vintage florals, signature sports and honeycomb geometrics, diagonal graphic stripes layered in contrasting directions, psychedelic swirls and florals
Details & trims: Leather tape ribbons with silver aglets, daisy appliqués on sheers, sporty raglan sleeves, colour-blocking edged in black trim, signature all-over macro-paillettes
Footwear: Flat kiltie-fringed sandals with wide soles, kiltie-fringed sandals with woven platform and high block heels, mid-heeled wood-platform sandals with shaped vamp and buckled straps
Accessories: Reduced-proportion sunglasses with elliptical frames; soft leather sports helmets; tubular assemblage necklaces with large ball-bearing beads, cylinders, clustured boules and transparent resin modules with pyrite inerts; overscaled flat-linked chains with enamelled geometric inserts; foldable square calfskin bags with contrast-coloured patent leather handles; knitted bags with embellished bases; framed handbags in two-tone basket woven leather or raffia; bucket bags in patent leather or featuring geometrical intarsias


Missoni

"It was about energy after two years of crisis," Angela Missoni said. Indeed full of vivacious exuberance, there was also a strong youthful undercurrent, perhaps influenced by the increasing involvement of daughter Margherita. Maybe this collection signalled a transitional phase for the family-run house, but transition can be an awkward time for a brand before it finds its new feet.
"I wanted to play with fashion and have fun. I wanted a blank canvas so that I could experiment with a lot of new techniques, like working with nylon and doubling with tulle, in order to keep both lightness and structure," Angela Missoni told WGSN.
The look: Mexican fiesta in Las Vegas colourSilhouette: A-line flare and boxy columns, a variety of lengths
Key items: Ankle-length dresses, cape-sleeved tent dresses, maxiskirts, beaded cropped tops worn with side-split Bermuda shorts or A-line skirts with a wide waistband; side-split gaucho pants; kaftans; long waistcoats; a wide-sleeved duster coat with fringing at the back; midi-length trapeze dresses that hang away from the body; long-line tunics over midi skirts; a skaterdress with sheer underlayer
Colour: Violet, orange, sky blue, lemon yellow with fluorescent green and neon pink, edged in graphic black
Fabric & knit: Mexican zigzags, fret zigzags, macro flame-stitch, high-tech structural nylon inserts, jacquards
Print & pattern: Irreverent slogans such as Going Bold, Pocket Rocket, Give Me Honey Baby, and Shaking All Over. Colour-blocking, geometric pattern-blocking, graphic zigzags, Mexican stripes and weave patterns, border patterns
Details & trims: Tabard-like side straps, pointed handkerchief hems, sequined letters, apron ties at the back, cutouts, patchwork, over-embroidered sequins and appliqués, beaded fringing, side splits, cape sleeves
Footwear: Multicoloured knit-tie sandals with low stubby heels in fluoro colours
Accessories: Floppy square-brimmed sun hats; kitsch charm bracelets; frameless octagonal sunglasses with flat built-up bridges; shoulder-strap bags and knitted leather handbags carried in clear plastic bags

Versus

Christopher Kane is into his stride at Versus, where he managed to typify the house's sassy rock-chic vibe in his latest collection, concentrating on working the silhouette with offbeat fabric-mixing and colour-blocking.
The look: Punk-meets-preppy chic
Silhouette: Sassy body-con silhouettes but with a girlish appeal
Key items: Dresses formed the crux of the collection, with short flippy apron wraps through to elongated asymmetric ruched sheaths in mixed plaids and prints. Other key dress shapes included fit-and-flare colour-blocked skater dresses with form-fitting bra tops and apron-wrap skirts. Cycle shorts, narrow stove pants and striped pencil skirts teamed with ruched tops continued the body-con theme, softened with a lean blouson jacket and semi-sheer cardigans or knits
Colour: Colour was hard-edged and bright, from the black-ground plaids that came in two or three colourways, to micro prints in shades of blue or red. A Mondrian-like palette of brights - poppy, cerulean, jade and magenta - was worked into Cubist-inspired flat blocks of clashing colour
Fabric & knit: Stretch plaids in several colourways, mixed in happy profusion; semi-sheer knits and nylon, leather, stretch cottons
Print & pattern: Traditional plaids came as prints and weaves; micro florals on dark grounds
Details & trims: Small collegiate crest badges, rouleau ties, strategically placed cutouts, ribbed welt trims, godet fans of crystal pleats
Footwear: X-strap sandals, chunky T-bars, shoe boots with contrast trims 
Accessories: Clutch purses and satchel-style shoulder bags in plaid with bright trims


Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo's latest collection tapped into several of the season's key trends, with longer lengths and a luxuriously worked early-70s vibe.
"The inspiration came from a movie of the late 60s - La Piscine. I didn't want to be nostalgic, but I did want to capture the atmosphere. I decided to play with deeper lengths because I really wanted to make a story about retranslating that elegance and sensuality in a refined way." Massimiliano Giornetti told WGSN.
The look: Early-70s peasant dressing with a luxe twist
Silhouette: Elongated and casually styled
Key items: The long tiered peasant skirt or maxidress featured in several colourways and fabrications, skirts teamed with midriff-baring cropped knits or halter tops. The tailored pantsuit came with a 70s edge in the flared cropped pant shapes, and there were 70s influences too in the safari jackets, leather-trimmed A-line skirts, the full-sleeved smock shirts, and the flippy crochet suede-trimmed dresses. Outerwear was luxuriously unstructured, with bathrobe-wrap trench coats and swingy casual jackets
Colour: A luxe palette of ivory and white, warm sand and caramel shading, through to lemon and mimosa, into sage greens, cornflower blue, teal and ink
Fabric & knit: Macramé and crochet compounded the 70s look, along with summer suede, linen and cotton poplins, canvas, leather, sheers and embroidered voiles
Print & pattern: A subtle leafy border print on white grounds and a floral/foliage all-over pattern in muted colours on white
Details & trims: Halternecks, rouleau straps, self-coloured embroidered appliqués on semi-sheer grounds
Footwear: Simple raffia and canvas with the luxe touch of python and crocodile for uber-flat sandals, laced-leg gladiators and two-tone pumps
Accessories: Headscarves, crochet long-strapped bags, alligator-trimmed dual-handle bags, leather belts with everything, chokers and pendants in metallic mesh and wood

Aquilano & Rimondi

A change of beat from Aquilano & Rimondi, who opted for vivid colour, an elongated silhouette and a newly youthful vibe.
The look: Subtle 70s references
Silhouette: Elongated and neat
Key items: Long skirts slashed to the thigh; tiered peasant skirts and neat blouses; long jersey tube dresses in mixed prints; floral-patterned pantsuits; pencil skirts and short-shorts, square-cut tees worked in sequins and stripes; asymmetric one-shouldered dresses; ruched midriffs on long sheath dresses; crisp tailored blazers and slashed pencil skirts
Colour: Colour was a riotous mix of cobalt, yellow, mandarin, jade, lime, brick red and soft poudre pink, offset with accents of magenta, black and white, and a flash of citric neon as a finale
Fabric & knit: Printed cottons and voiles, double-faced satin, sequins, plissé silks, crepe de chine
Print & pattern: Simple colourful 70s floral combination print worked on black grounds, stripes, spots, small micro pattern 
Details & trims: Contrast braid trims, intense beading patterns with jewelled trims, contrast piping, ruching effects
Footwear: High strappy sandals in brights
Accessories: Narrow brightly coloured belts

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Live From... Milan Fashion Week, Day 4

Bottega Veneta

            

The seemingly casual effortlessness at Bottega Veneta yesterday wasdevoid of theatrics and themes. Instead Tomas Maier concentrated on thecomfort and desirability of relaxed fits and sensuous materials.
"Iwas interested in very casual shapes that take on a sensuous feelingand movement - a simple T-shirt dress that, as a woman walks, if thematerial is right, you can see the body," Maier told WGSN. "I am notinto the obvious or the evident. The unstructured tailoring wasinspired by cardigans - classic shapes but in the wrong materials andtaking the inside out."
The look: Relaxed luxury
Silhouette: Soft and unstructured, casually sporty
Key items:Unstructured pant- or shorts-suits with raw-edged inside-out seamingand cutaway elbows; casual tapered pants with buckle-strapped ankles;racer-back trapeze and swing dresses - some with handkerchief hems,others with draped swags adding volume at the back; sporty loose-fittab-shouldered dress with mesh torso panel; alligator-leathersleeveless jacket worn with washed leather pants; a simple ribbed-knitvest worn with a belted paper-bag-waist linen maxiskirt; knittedharem-pant jumpsuit; roomy pleat-front shorts; breezy midi-length silkdresses; soft dirndls decorated with naïve appliqués
Colours:Opening with the darker shades of cement and slate grey and an intenseblue-black, the palette gradually lightened, with airy shades of milkwhite, cream, neutral parchment and a single shot of ice blue
Fabric & knit: Silk, linen, papery cottons, washed and crumpled leathers, perforated piqué or suede, jersey and viscose, chainmail
Details & trims:Short single feathers in placement formations; singularly placedspindly vulture feathers creating a delicate fringe; slashedcross-hatching pattern or part-punched circles; sporty all-overperforations; leather border hems; mesh panels and inserts; naïveappliqués; crinkled finishes; baggy patch pockets on dresses
Footwear: Flat two-strap leather sandals with toe loop and connecting metal ring; suede peep-toe booties
Accessories:Filigree jewellery and cameos hand-carved in lava stone and set inblackened sterling silver, made by craftsmen in Naples. Understatedhandbags in leather, exotic skins or canvas for cross-body styles;puffy hobos and the signature woven Cabat

Emporio Armani

            

For his Emporio line, Giorgio Armani ticked off several of theseason's key looks - layered lengths, swinging A-line shapes andconceal-and-reveal sheers, in an extensive collection stamped with thedesigner's signature ladylike elegance and sporty nuances.
The look: Young sophisticate
Silhouette: Layered columns and A-line flares
Key items:Swingy long-line bandeau tops or abbreviated jackets with long-linetunics, layered over ruched tulle pencil skirts; tiered babydoll tops;flared satin evening coats or mini-crini skirts layered with ruchedtulle leggings; slim-fitting tailored shorts paired with flirty ruffledtops; tapered pant shapes with vertical ruffled fins or drawstringwaistbands; sporty blouson shirts; cowl-draped fine-knit jersey tops;tailored jackets with curved closures for day, or sharp-shouldered tuxderivatives for party
Colours: Aqua, mint and ice-blue pales with a raft of mineral greys and sandy beige; vivid geranium pink
Fabric & knit:Mesh knits, smooth duchesse satins, silk, blistered and crinkledorganza, stretch tulle, voile, rubberised raffia, lace with a lurexfinish
Print & pattern: Palm-leaf motif in two-tone metallic grey and accent colour - either green, fuchsia or cobalt
Details & trims: Thermo-welded leather tiles on organza base, ruched tulle, sheer ruffled peplums on jackets
Footwear: Lace-up canvas booties with nappa piping; wood-effect platform wedges with canvas wrap detail
Accessories:Square Perspex bangles, rigid-handled bags, small patent bags,across-body hard-box evening bags, wide belts, necklaces in a varietyof lengths in plaited twine with wood and facet-cut horn-effect beads

Emilio Pucci

            

Peter Dundas pulled off a double-headed coup with his latestspring/summer showing, managing to perfectly encapsulate the house'sglamorous bohemian image, while working next summer's 70s trend to themax.
The look: 70s bohemian
Silhouette: Long, flowing and sexy
Key items:Low-cut flared pants came with lacing and fringed details, teamed withlaced tie-dye tees and shrunken blazers or a fringed, sinuously workedsuede trench. Dress silhouettes veered from high-low-hemmed ruffledmaxis to slinky jersey worked in revamped archive prints withslashed-to-the-thigh hems and sexy laced backs. Elsewhere there wereshort kaftans, crochet sheaths and barely there swimwear
Colour:A palette of dazzling Mediterranean azure blues, teamed with crispwhite and warm spice tones. Think turmeric yellows and nutmeg orcinnamon browns with a flash of watermelon and a finale of black andwhite
Fabric & knit: Silk chiffons and organzas,cut-work silks, broderie, lace and cotton crochet, worked with slinkypython, summer suede, leather and printed silk jersey
Print & pattern:Mediterranean tile motifs worked into scrolling patterns played out inblue and white sat alongside reworked house archive prints on jerseygrounds, with a dash of hippy-de-luxe tie-dye thrown in
Details & trims:A medley of ruffles, mirrored Indian embroideries, pom-pom trims,guipure lace placements, rouleau lacing and whip-stitching, sexypeek-a-boo cutouts on jersey
Footwear: Footwear veeredfrom tan laced over-the-knee sandal boots to high wrapped-strap sandalsin tan leather or python with D-ring trims and needle-thin gold heels
Accessories:Wide-brimmed 70s hats and wide head-wrap scarves; long tooled leathershoulder bags with tassel trims, or traditional Greek woven bags;scarves trimmed with mirror embroidery and pom-poms; widegrommet-trimmed belts; and jewelled crosses

Jil Sander

            

Inspired by the maximalism of couture, Raf Simons played withoverblown shapes and high-octane colour, while retaining the Jil Sanderminimalism through played-down detailing and bold graphic stripes.
The look: Playful proportions
Silhouette: Oversized with controlled volume, long lengths and ovoid shapes
Key items:Simple black or white crew-neck tees worn with ovoid maxiskirts puffedat the waist, or super-wide pants, some with a short ruffled peplum.Maxi tent dresses; wide pleat-front pants teamed with sheer stripedtanks (US: vests); slim and straight-cut tailored pants teamed withsimple button-through collared shirts; oversized boyfriend blazers andlightweight commuter coats; sporty outerwear pieces such as hoodedwindcheaters and parkas; swing jackets with drawcord hems; a cocktaildress with wrapped tulip-shaped skirt and bow bustle
Colours:Hyperreal fluoros paired saturated brights - Kelly green, Yves Kleinblue, violet, magenta, fire-engine red and navy with neon pink, safetyorange and high-vis yellow, with graphic black and white
Fabric & knit: Cotton-silk blends with a host of techno fabrics including taffeta, nylon and a papery gabardine
Print & pattern: Wide block stripes, black-and-white jailhouse stripes, magnified placement floral, digital photoreal floral collage
Details & trims:Overscaled, floppy paper-bag waists, ruffled contrast-coloured peplums,wide single-feature pleats at the back on coats and jackets, fluorotapes
Footwear: Courts with cutaway sides, and platform slingbacks with fluorescent glossed soles
Accessories: Mirrored bug-eye sunglasses with double fluoro-wire frames; PVC totes and shoppers

MaxMara

            

Clean lines, minimal detailing and a play on colour were thehallmarks of MaxMara's spring/summer showing, where a sportswearaesthetic was given a feminine twist from weightless fabrication.
The look: Modern minimalism
Silhouette: Lean and body-con
Key items:Close-fitting cropped kick-flare pants came teamed with second-skincolour-blocked or backless jersey tops, that same minimal look runningthrough to narrow cycle shorts, simple pencil skirts and bandeau tops.Trench coats and cropped trench jackets provided the outerwear options,while soft flowing slashed-side palazzos and maxiskirts were offsetwith pencil-narrow DB blazers or a cropped cable-knit sweater
Colour:A fresh clean palette of warm sand neutrals offset with offbeatbrights, chrome yellow, mandarin, flame and violet, often worked intonal mixes. White and black added to the clean-cut look
Fabric & knit: Summer suede and leather, crepe de chine, second-skin jersey, organza, satin
Print & pattern: Simple stripes and spots
Details & trims: Fly-front detailing, backless and cut-out details on jersey, colour-blocking
Footwear: Simple Mary-Jane high-heeled courts in satin, suede and metallics
Accessories: Narrow coloured belts, double-handled zipped bags

Just Cavalli

            

Next summer's 70s hippy vibe provides the perfect playground forCavalli's signature brand of sexy, throw-it-all-on bohemian aesthetics,with a medley of print, pattern and decorative denim guaranteed toappeal to his Mediterranean jet-set fan base.
The look: 70s hippy-de-luxe meets St-Tropez
Silhouette: Long pile-it-on-layers
Key items:Cavalli played with the trend for denim-on-denim with his chambrayshirts, embellished denim vests and jeans, long pieced-denim skirts,and pearl-, lace- or flower-encrusted flared jeans. There was a play onprint mixing too, with his bias-panelled skirts, ruffled smocks andfloaty maxidresses, with some skin-printed pencil skirts and Victorianlace-trimmed blouses thrown into the mix
Colour: A full-onpalette that spanned washed blues through palm greens, yellows, orangeand brown, with sandy neutrals and a dash of purple and red
Fabric & knit:Denim in every weight and wash; embellished denim, from pearl-encrustedto lace-trimmed and flocked or stencilled patterns. Chambray,chamois-like suedes, metallic leathers, sheers and lace
Print & pattern:The designer's penchant for skin prints was firmly addressed withleopard, python and zebra patterns, clashing with multicoloured mixedflorals and a leafy palm print
Details & trims: Appliqués and beading, embroidery and lacing
Footwear: Patterned stiletto courts
Accessories: Wide-brimmed 70s hats, belts, and pendants trimmed with mineral gemstones such as onyx, long fringed suede satchels

Moschino Cheap & Chic

            

Abandoning the traditional catwalk, Rossella Jardini turned herMoschino Cheap & Chic show into a cocktail party-come-stageperformance, as her girlish models skipped about the platform, blowingkisses to the crowd and swishing their skirts for the photographers.
The look: Joie de vivre!
Silhouette: Swishy midi-lengths, boxy tops
Key items:Full midi-length skirts paired with fluffy cable-knit sweaters andcardigans or button-down shirts with oversized collars; roomy-fitshorts with boxy edge-to-edge jackets; peg pants with an oversizedT-shirt with casually rolled sleeves; short and girly dresses - eitherwaisted with a bell-shaped skirt, one-shouldered with a chiffon ruffletwisting round the A-line body, or a long-sleeved pussy-bow shirtdress
Colours:Glorious technicolour with fuchsia and bubblegum pinks, Seville orange,sunshine yellow, lilac, aqua and neon green, tempered with sensibleblack and white
Fabric & knit: Eyelet broderie, viscose jersey, mohair cable knits, multicolour yarns, silk chiffon, cotton, "smile" intarsia
Print & pattern: An overblown painterly lemon print, Vichy checks, coral twigs, and doodled patterns of spots, ellipses and clouds
Details & trims:Plastic kiddies' beads ad buttons in eclectic collages, pearl buttonsand beads, corsages, ribbon bows, plastic chain trim on collars andcuffs, large starched shirt collars and cuffs, flirty ruffles, splicedand patchworked prints
Footwear: Fabric-tied sandals
Accessories:Coral-twig or seashell necklaces, rolled headscarves, top-handled boxybags with sailboat-motif closures, waist belts, large sunglasses withgraded lenses

Albino Deuxième

            

A deliciously feminine look from Albino D'Amato, who worked hiscolour palette with a painterly hand, colour-blocking simple shapestrimmed with overtly girlish flourishes.
"My reference point wasthe Baroque period in Europe and the 18th-century painting fromVelásquez and Reubens, in particular their palette of colours, and theplay of light and dark. The shapes and silhouettes are glamorous, butnot in a red-carpet way - more Yves Saint Laurent in the 70s. I wantedto explore a new silhouette, long and fluid," designer Albino D'Amatotold WGSN.
The look: Subtle 70s
Silhouette: Couture-like long and full, short and A-line
Key items:Exaggerated detailing emphasised short minidresses and soft kimonocoats, tied under the bust and with flowing caped sleeves. Long,flowing maxidresses came in triplicate blocks of colour, whileslash-front maxiskirts sported deep paper-bag waists and bow-tiedsashes. Pants were narrow and cigarette-shaped, to team with simpletunic or swingy A-line tops
Colour: A fresh palette ofcool marble greys and alabaster whites shot with vivid accents ofcitrine, onyx green, coral and washed mango
Fabric & knit: Couture-like silks and silk-linen blends; organza and taffetas added structure to the silhouettes
Print & pattern: Subtle neo-classic and Baroque-like florals
Details & trims: Dramatic bows, bib details, colour-blocking, ruffles
Footwear: Strappy sandals sporting a big floppy bow on one foot
Accessories: Floppy organza hats, bow-tied sashes

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